2:29 AM
Alexis Mabille, AMI, APC, dior, Dior Homme, fashion show, Fashion Week, hermes, Kenzo, Mens Runway, Menswear, paris fashion week, PFW, spring summer 2014
Day 4 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: Doing Business at the Beach.
"Just think how you negotiate wearing a tuxedo on a beach," were part of Kris Van Assche's description for Dior Homme Spring 2014 menswear collection. "It's formality and informality: choice, chance, and lightness."
Making a color choice was very straightforward here. Red wine, blue, light gray, and black were the only options. Most of the collection became a repetition of either looks in shorts or slim trousers, suits or vests, and in either subtler leather patchworks, that made one reflect what could have been the perfect outfit to go on a negotiation. But what if you were to rewind back to the beginning of the collection and take a closer look at each individual outfit that could have appeared identical for a few seconds? Notice, the chance of choosing the same identical outfit could have just become quite difficult and interesting to think about. It was those small uncommon details that Dior has always been perfect and successful at making one ponder what is the difference about these two?
Van Assche elaborated his suits in two tones of colors, such as a red wine suit with a black lining pictured above, to just matching silk linings. He made his other lightly tailored suits look unique with either straight or diagonal pockets, whilst his leather patchwork techniques were etched in various positions; the best in the collection. It was his idea of dressing up for a sunny negotiation that most likely motivated him to present silhouettes that felt quite comfortable and relaxed with glossy T-shirts under suits or jackets; his leather numbers were somewhat edgy for the Dior man. It seems Van Assche's minimalistic details for the Dior Homme brand will make it a favorite amongst many in menswear that will never turn into a weary presentation.
Vibe: Humble Luxury.
Who would've imagined the Herm�s guy would be the one to wear a $99,000 light crocodile t-shirt that didn't have much to say if you saw him wearing it? That has been Veronique Nichanian's long term goal under the brand, which is one of the world's most recognizable luxury brands. Making luxury look so easy on the eye is a mastering skill Nichanian has obtained with perfection. The touch and feel of her fabric is another magical journey towards real luxury.
It could be rare to declare that the Hermes menswear line has had such a higher reputation than its womenswear counterpart. Mrs. Nichanian and Mr. Christophe Lemaire (womenswear designer) both understand that travel is the soul that holds Hermes together, but Mrs. Nichanian with no doubt knows hot to describe it with a much more clearer perspective: a man who travels with pure luxury at an effortless state of mind.
She opened her spring 2014 menswear show with a pair of great slim-fitted pants done in the finest cotton material, a pleasantly tailored navy suit, signature print button-down dress shirt and tie, and a navy crocodile belt piece. It was her other looks of simplicity - t-shirts with buttons on shoulders, scoop-neck tank tops, and exquisitely light printed polka dot pants - that deserved a stand innovation.
Leather couldn't be left off in here. Her baby lambskin leather pants looked as breezy as a pair of cotton pants, while her outerwear jackets were yet another triumphant season for the brand. She added one specific high-tech jacket that changed from a leather suede to a its natural lambskin leather fabric; it was done so well it appeared the fabrics weren't event stitched together. She seemed to have shifted from her most talked about crocodile t-shirt, and instead opted to go for what seemed to be a python long sleeve light gray sweatshirt; a sumptuous choice of fabric that looked splendid for the brand.
Vibe: Paris Boys in L.A.
Kenzo can be mostly recognized for its iconic tiger print logo sweaters from its spring 2013 collection, which have had an outstanding street style success over the past season. It revived the brand to become a huge target amongst young teenagers who were eager to know who designed those super cool sweaters. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were thinking about how Parisian boys would look like traveling to L.A. Their color-block suits did imbue a California sensation that came in very relaxed silhouettes boys in L.A. would wear. The only difference is that Kenzo's version of L.A. would come with a dose of Parisian luxury. Shirt sleeve scribbled printed shirts and sweaters were pleasing to watch, and could become another potential success for the developing brand. Lean and Lim are still in works of finding the correct niche that could lead Kenzo to a greater height in fashion. So far, its cool artistic-ly sweaters have proven to be a beginning signature for the label.
Vibe: Sporty-Couture.
Alexis Mabille has a tendency to be a little to heavy in his menswear collections. They are of a high-luxe art, but his designs are best appreciating as a work of art, then wearing them. He may have understood by now that men's wear clothes differs greatly from womenswear. His last three collections have shown a much more casual vibe done in the Mabille manner: adding special doses of sportswear injected with couture.
His spring 2014 men's wear collection felt even more communicating to a broader audience. He went with high stitched scoop-neck tank tops that looked appealing with his very fitted navy and olive pants, etched with white linings around pockets, yoke, and a braided leather finished on the back of a pocket for a couture quality. Shirts came with epaulets finished on the sides. One hybrid piece was a mixture between a suit and a sweatshirt that was noteworthy for the new Mabille man. Sweaters printed with the phrase, "Tonight I wear Mabille so let's set the world on fire I can burn brighter than the sun," had an urban quality. His last look, pictured above in a short black suit and crisp white detailed shirt was that of the modern Mabille, but much more toned down.
Vibe: The Classic Denim Staple.
A.P.C. (Atelier de Production et de Cr�ation) has been around since 1987. The brand has established itself as a leader in easy to wear cool urban menswear pieces at fairly luxe prices. Their jeans are what have gained them a higher reputation in menswear for making one of the best well made jeans that are sure to last. Purchasing knitwear and outwear from this brand is a decision well made. They are always on the hunt for making a new collection that will always become a cool classical wardrobe staple to any of your looks.
Their new spring 2014 men's wear collection is yet to be another favorite amongst the many who appreciate the craftsmanship A.P.C. does finely. One camel colored suede jacket was the seasons must add to your next wardrobe staple.
Vibe: The Dapper Airport Arrival.
Alexandre Mattiussi of AMI had in mind an airport arrival from a vacation. His men - young, businesslike, and adventurous - were the main focus for his new spring 2014 men's wear collection. He added fun the way he believed a man should arrive from an airport. But what was more captivating was the choice of tailoring that made everything much more gratifying then from previous seasons.
He added camouflage and floral prints, stripes that looked fresh on a pair of trousers, Prince of Wales check suits that were paired with much more tailored shirts or cool knitted sweaters, pleasing denim numbers, and layering techniques that made the AMI guy compelling to watch arrive from an airport. We wish arrivals were this well put together in reality.
The last day of a month full of Fashion Week was finally over. What a way to have begun the final hours with Louis Vuitton, following Miu Miu, and ending it relaxed with Elie Saab. You couldn't have asked for more.
Vibe: A romantic intimacy.
Results: This was by far the most romantic theme Marc Jacobs could portray for Louis Vuitton. Pajamas. It was all about those silky daywear numbers he opted to present. Who wouldn�t want to wake up like this in their LV pajamas and still look as gorgeous as a dress would imply? I know for most women this is their dream come true. No more dealing with the daily struggle of what to wear. Coats definitely were a plus. The manner in which colors sort of faded from each other was femininity to the max. And for the suits as the one above, Jacobs basically said, forget those pants, just make it your dress. I don�t know if that was romantic or lusty. What do you think?
Vibe: Star Trek gone sexy.
Results: Miu Miu (derived from Miuccia Prada�s nickname) has become one of the most sought out brands in fashion. It�s no surprise why this brand has had some of the honors of being one the of the second to last shows to close Paris Fashion Week, and to add, close a month full of Fashion Week. Ms. Prada has made it clear about the differences between Prada and Miu Miu. To summarize it, Prada is all about being playful and feminine, but Miu Miu � she�s the chic, fashion-forward, and lusty one. Those neckerchiefs provoked something mysterious hidden in her. The setting appeared futuristic, which gave the clothes that perfect atmosphere. Pink polka dot coats screamed femininity in a lustful style. Shoes became the future of the new sexy footwear. I mean, as usual, Miu Miu taught us some fashion tips to expect to be wearing in the future. Some of you may know that Star Trek will be out soon. I don�t know why, but the movie comes to mind when I view the collection. I can already imagine the women fighting with these clothes on.
Vibe: Office evening
Results: Elie Saab has been in charge of closing a month full of Fashion Week. I believe it does feel adequate to close Fashion Week with a collection that feels relaxed and pleasant for many. This is what Elie Saab delivered in his presentation. I would have to state I view his collection more commercially than anything else. Now, his Haute Couture is another story. He is a talented man, but for a collection, I felt it was a little too resort or pre-fall to say the least. I hope you agree with me that the clothes were quite relaxed and lovely to watch. Colors � navy, purple, black, yellow, and white � were a hit target for many women. Southern women would definitely fall in love with the collection. If anything Elie Saab knows how to make beautifully, it would be lace embroidery. You have got to love them.
It was clear that Chanel, under Karl Lagerfeld, will still be the dominator of fashion. I mean, who in the world doesn�t know what Chanel is; at least Chanel No.5. Chanel is literally one of the best shows in town when it comes to a fashion show. If anything you should be impressed by when viewing a Chanel presentation, it should be its setting � a merry go round, a barn, sea creatures, crystal glaziers, wind turbines, and now���The World.
It may seem that after so many years that Karl Lagerfeld has been designing for Chanel it gets boring. In my opinion, designing for Chanel four times a year, you�d think you may run out of ideas; not for Karl. Each collection just gets better. Karl has made Chanel his own world we all want to live in. And for his fall collection it was stated clear � if you want to be with him, you must reach the top of the world.
When I judge something, especially a runway show, I have to view a video of the show in order to give my opinion; from what I am able to observe. I am obsessed when it comes to the movement of the garments. The way something moves is a key fundamental part of a designer�s presentation; no movement, no interest. And let�s get to the point. Mr. Lagerfeld scored a huge win here. If you have not seen the show, you must go watch it now (after this).
Coats stole my heart in this show. The silhouettes were simply impeccable � strong, energetic, and extremely confident for the Chanel customer. Coats were slightly loose in such a way, they created a swag for the model wearing them; so sick when paired with those chained shoes. When closed, they appeared as if they were a one-piece suit � skirt and suit all in one � which were very deceiving and rewarding. Texture definitely appeared crafted a la Chanel. I wish I could have seen it closer in person.
Unzipped skirts. Let�s talk secretly sensual. Another deceiving and mind thoughtful idea ��until you realized there was a second layer hidden underneath. Too bad for those guys who thought there was something occurring under there.
Accessories were very pleasing. I loved the idea of those colored fur haircut hats. Shoes, as I stated previously � sick. Handbags were colorful and youthful. Everything was mastered with perfection; no complaints as always.
Who wants to be part of the Chanel world?
Watch the Show Here.
Calm. Classic. Innovative. After three seasons, Raf Simons seems to be getting comfortable handling the house of Christian Dior. For the average person, some still can�t accept the fact that Dior�s prestigious roots has returned for good; there are no more theatrical designs we were used to viewing. Get over it! Since Simons� couture debut, I could already see the changes that were about to occur. Then, in his first Spring 2013 RTW collection, he stamped the official return of the legacy (Christian Dior) mixed with his own style.
As you can quite tell, I am a really big fan of Simons. He is the only one who can make women look so romantic without inserting the sexual (even sensual) word. His talent exceeds one�s expectations.
After a while, too much sexiness can be boring, but too much modernism can get boring as well. Mr. Simons found the perfect magical balance to achieve a breathtaking collection. I believe this was the reason why the setting was well designed with the vibrant atmosphere of the sky paired with the huge silver crystal balls that reflected one�s image. It was time to change routes � peacefully and slowly � without being too obvious (sort of). The reflection described to me the new woman who will learn to fall in deep love with this collection. After all, a reflection is the most powerful weapon a woman could have; the collection was itself powerful.
The opening of a black coat � cape-like silhouette with an exaggerated neck tie � was striking beautiful. These designs also came in a deep red, to a light pink one as delicate as a woman. Iconic strapless dresses made an appearance � featuring hand-drawn artwork portraying dazzling shoes and women � with enough statement fit for a romantic dinner.
Wide-leg trousers were a new introduction after last season�s tailored ones. Peplum blazers were a must � making the trousers much more feminine.
Knitwear was one the biggest winners in this collections. The manner in which he took the cable-knit dresses, and added peplum details blew my mind. Crochet was superbly feminine. A pink crochet layered over a houndstooth dress was one of my favorites. Shoes, bags, and pearl rings - I had no words to describe them.
For evening, beaded and metallic mid-length dresses couldn�t be any more romantic. I became deeply in love with the final dress the model ported down the runway. I adored the simplicity and ladylike designs it offered with metallic strips of burgundy running from the side. All dresses were clearly meant to be worn for a red carpet event. Jennifer Lawrence and Marion Cotillard will have lots to think about for this upcoming fall collection; if they can wait.
Raf Simons in conclusion, made this presentation one of the major and most innovative collections of the season. If you don�t appreciate this, then it may be time for you to take a visit to one of Dior�s boutique and view it live and present. Sometimes, a show like his is better worth experiencing it in life than behind a computer.
Alexander Wang as new creative director for Balenciaga became one of the biggest debates of the season. Some were disappointed, some joyful for him, and others (like me) curious to know what he would bring to the table, for he had big shoes to fill in. The wait was over Thursday morning.
Wang sent a good message across here. I never saw a glimpse of Nicholas Ghesquiere�s work in any of the clothes. It was as he never existed; thought competitive. Just as Raf Simons opted to go back to the archives at Dior, Mr.Wang went the same route as well. I felt it was a great moment to celebrate the history of a master � Cristobal Balenciaga � with the debut of a new designer. It was clear that Alexander had been doing his homework for quite some time. The months he took to do his research and study every detail of the house signatures paid off. Couture silhouettes are synonymous of the house, so this is what Alexander gave us. You wanted couture, volume, and texture? Well, here it is.
I was very pleased with the round shoulders, black cocoon coats, cracked marble turtlenecks that looked they had a life of its own, and mink jackets that had an astonishing visual effect. Skinny pants were the surprise here, knowing Wang is not so into the fitted trend situation, were pleasing to watch. A favorite of mine on the runway was a gray dress with beautiful prints of swirls; a mosaic parade was happening everywhere.
If I were to personally grade this collection, I would give it an A. Why? Maybe it�s just the fact that I�m used to experiencing color influence on most of the designs the previous designer used to present, which I may have wanted. If you know already, Alexander Wang is all about the black and white, and some gray. We know he does extraordinarily great when it comes to texture, which was not doubt perfectly present on this runway, but maybe his next step will be to let go of his fear of experimenting with more color. Overall, it was a great technique of Wang to use the archives as his advantage for his debut. Hopefully, next season he upgrades his hues a little more for his spring festive.
