Last week was a very stressful week for me, which did not permit me to post my short reviews of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, but it is never to late to talk about it. In fact, I find something much more interesting if you take the time to analyze it in a calm environment. Don't you think so?
Haute Couture is nothing but a dream. In case you're not familiar with what is haute couture, in a brief description, it is a work of art a human can achieve entirely by hand - no heavy equipment allowed - in a matter of days. Being these clothes are crafted by hand, prices for these beauties can go way beyond an ordinary mink jacket. And yes, they are made to fit like a glove for the customer who decides to purchase them. How special can that be to have a top or dress made just for you?
There were only around 18 shows in total that were presented during Paris Haute Couture Week, which at the beginning may sound like it wasn't too many to fulfill a week of womenswear fashion, but we're not talking about a ready-to-wear collection here. Imagine the team it takes to embroider a dress entirely by hand, to cut and sew an entire collection purely by hand. There was a time where I decided to cut and sew a simple top I was making by hand just to feel the couture vibe. For someone who is not so patient, you would guess how it went. I never finished the rest of the garment, but learned to appreciate even more every detail that goes into making such an haute couture collection.
Raf Simons could relate to my experience I had with couture. When most of us see other haute couture collections, we come to agree that these are only shows that are about evening wear and exaggeration, but in Mr. Simons' world everything is questioned.
His Fall 2013 Couture collection for Christian Dior took us to another level of haute couture. Why not make couture modern in a manner where even the younger generations will be able to fall in love with this art and keep it alive? Couture is fading, and if it's not shifted to another route it could extinct soon. What Mr. Simons showed during Paris Haute Couture was the perfect example of what we need for the couture world, and what other designers should begin emulating.
There was no drama or exaggeration in this collection. It was all the opposite of a supposed couture show. He took us around the world - Paris, North America, Asia, and Africa - in a very effortless yet luxurious couture standard. He kept embroidered dresses minimalistic that set him apart from other designers; they made the clothes much more appreciative. Overt were his bar jackets except in new technical fabrics that played an homage to the woman of Paris; a gray houndstooth number with white sequins was a favorite. He also imbued a sportswear theme to the new couture - in very relaxed silhouettes - that were captivating towards a younger audience. His African prints - mostly striped ones - and spiky textures were probably the only numbers that added somewhat of a drama, but in such a refined manner without overdoing it.
There were other couture shows that centered around too much embroidery that became a nausea, but there was nothing as fresh and lustrous as what Christian Dior presented. Even the tune to Kanye West's new song was invigorating. In general, we could say he elevated ready-to-wear to a very high standard of luxury one could notice the difference when wearing it; details are what are worth everything. The question here though is if couture could soon become the new trend amongst a wider audience Mr.Simons seems to be engaging us? Maybe dreaming more of having in our opinion, or better yet, having us seek for a special couture shop that could fulfill our needs, and open the doors to a wider couture field that would keep this special craftsmanship alive for many more years.
When you think that something has become a new trend, Mr. Simons is always two steps forward, looking back at his history of what you thought was "new." He has only presented seven collections in total for Christian Dior, but with so many new innovative techniques, it is no wonder why Raf Simons will always be a legendary reference to the designer who came out with that idea or design first.
7:27 AM
fashion show, Fashion Week, lanvin, Mens Runway, Menswear, paris fashion week, Paul Smith, Saint Laurent, spring summer 2014, Thom Browne, YSL
Day 5 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The Dark Rock n' Roll.
Hedi Slimane created quite a controversy ever since he decided to changed the phase of the new Saint Laurent spirit. His first two shows felt like a huge slap from many fashion critics who couldn't bare to see how Saint Laurent would turn into a horrendous rock inspired label. It only took a season when his collection was finally available in most retailers, that most of us understood Mr. Slimane was in fact selling pure luxury; it has now become a big sensation amongst its young rebellious audience.
Slimane seemed more confident of himself for his new Saint Laurent spring 2014 menswear collection. This collection felt way more appealing than his first menswear debut for the label. It was obvious we were to expect another sort of California rock theme fulfilled with lots of black leather, skinny boys, and surprisingly a more relaxed tune. Perhaps it could have been that by know one should be very well acquainted of what the Slimane is focusing on: having a voice towards its youthful audience who want the taste of that rock clean luxury. No need for more drama.
He introduced a series of mesh shirts, polka dot dress shirts, and exquisitely tailored skinny trousers which could have been perfectly appealing on an average model. His suits - leopard prints, checked-windowpanes, and gold sequins - were just a few pleasing noteworthy numbers, whilst his outerwear designs, such as one silver varsity jacket, could become a great hit next season.
On an average perspective, Slimane's decision to letting very skinny boys wear his clothes on the runway, brings down the collecting quite a bit. They say that first impression is what counts, and his skinny guys are the unappealing impression. But once viewed on a well fitted model, it is unbelievable how powerful Saint Laurent still remains after all the changes. His sharp tailoring lets the clothes speak for themselves. It is as if Slimane enjoys playing with our minds. One day we could say the collection was terrible, and the next day we see a famous star porting Saint Laurent's clothes or accessories, you can find us searching for that piece to incorporate into our wardrobe.
Today, Saint Laurent is one of the go to brands for the bad girl/boy who wants to set a statement in those black leather numbers that have become the signature of the new brand. His motorcycle jackets are the most coveted designer ones; a classic now as stated in their description. The only difference about being a bad Saint Laurent girl/boy is having the necessary amount of money to satisfy ones need, because prices for these babies - a jacket retailing at $5,900 - fits more the spoiling brat who doesn't give a hell how the economy is right now.
Vibe: Strong Silhouettes.
While many men's wear designers were going for strong floral prints, Lanvin went with not a single dose of print. Instead they focused on their tough relaxed tailoring, which made this collection one of the strongest presentations of paris men's spring 2014 fashion week.
Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver went with a number of matching rich silk pants (pajama-like) and t-shirts that were a stand innovation for the duo. Their was something in their style that imbued an urban masculine appeal most men could favor. Being pure silk the choice of fabric that could lean towards femininity, there was none of that feminine l'air in these looks. Suits - less strictly tailored - were actually pleasing to see coming from Lanvin. Perhaps their precise choice of fabric and color is what made them one of the best relaxed silhouettes compared to other brands; so mesmerizing.
Texture was replaced for prints. It was intriguing to see a pair of trousers (pictured right above) with such a luxurious texture you could easily feel when zoomed closer. At far they could have been perceived as a fading print, but they were actually a living print just as were their glossy sweatshirts and tank tops. It seems Lanvin came with a stronger force of authority in men's fashion this season, which we hope continues on to next season so triumphantly.
Vibe: A Joyful Life of Living Colors.
Color is the living DNA of the Paul Smith man. Tailoring is also what makes his colors more refreshening to watch. And the injection of youthfulness in his designs finish describing who is the Paul Smith guy. To say the least, his spring 2014 menswear collection was enough to understand the brand without too much fashion vocabulary: easy and joyfully stylish.
His suits, slim-ly tailored with insects of different colors on hems of sleeves and suits, were quite pleasing to see, but maybe not so gratifying to see on his color-block trousers. They weren't poorly made by no means, but there was something missing to them; just blah. If some his outerwear jackets could have had less zippers and more emphasis in construction, they would have been the perfect ones to wear. There was one navy and white checked blouson that made a nice intro.
What were noteworthy were his colorful sweaters and short-sleeve shirts. In conclusion it seems there will always be four things we will always be fond to see Mr. Paul Smith design exquisitely: a great suit jacket; a pair of great tailored trousers with no color-block or prints; an outstanding casual or dress shirt with or without youthful prints; and a delightful sweater that will never be out of style no matter what season were in.
2:29 AM
Alexis Mabille, AMI, APC, dior, Dior Homme, fashion show, Fashion Week, hermes, Kenzo, Mens Runway, Menswear, paris fashion week, PFW, spring summer 2014
Day 4 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: Doing Business at the Beach.
"Just think how you negotiate wearing a tuxedo on a beach," were part of Kris Van Assche's description for Dior Homme Spring 2014 menswear collection. "It's formality and informality: choice, chance, and lightness."
Making a color choice was very straightforward here. Red wine, blue, light gray, and black were the only options. Most of the collection became a repetition of either looks in shorts or slim trousers, suits or vests, and in either subtler leather patchworks, that made one reflect what could have been the perfect outfit to go on a negotiation. But what if you were to rewind back to the beginning of the collection and take a closer look at each individual outfit that could have appeared identical for a few seconds? Notice, the chance of choosing the same identical outfit could have just become quite difficult and interesting to think about. It was those small uncommon details that Dior has always been perfect and successful at making one ponder what is the difference about these two?
Van Assche elaborated his suits in two tones of colors, such as a red wine suit with a black lining pictured above, to just matching silk linings. He made his other lightly tailored suits look unique with either straight or diagonal pockets, whilst his leather patchwork techniques were etched in various positions; the best in the collection. It was his idea of dressing up for a sunny negotiation that most likely motivated him to present silhouettes that felt quite comfortable and relaxed with glossy T-shirts under suits or jackets; his leather numbers were somewhat edgy for the Dior man. It seems Van Assche's minimalistic details for the Dior Homme brand will make it a favorite amongst many in menswear that will never turn into a weary presentation.
Vibe: Humble Luxury.
Who would've imagined the Herm�s guy would be the one to wear a $99,000 light crocodile t-shirt that didn't have much to say if you saw him wearing it? That has been Veronique Nichanian's long term goal under the brand, which is one of the world's most recognizable luxury brands. Making luxury look so easy on the eye is a mastering skill Nichanian has obtained with perfection. The touch and feel of her fabric is another magical journey towards real luxury.
It could be rare to declare that the Hermes menswear line has had such a higher reputation than its womenswear counterpart. Mrs. Nichanian and Mr. Christophe Lemaire (womenswear designer) both understand that travel is the soul that holds Hermes together, but Mrs. Nichanian with no doubt knows hot to describe it with a much more clearer perspective: a man who travels with pure luxury at an effortless state of mind.
She opened her spring 2014 menswear show with a pair of great slim-fitted pants done in the finest cotton material, a pleasantly tailored navy suit, signature print button-down dress shirt and tie, and a navy crocodile belt piece. It was her other looks of simplicity - t-shirts with buttons on shoulders, scoop-neck tank tops, and exquisitely light printed polka dot pants - that deserved a stand innovation.
Leather couldn't be left off in here. Her baby lambskin leather pants looked as breezy as a pair of cotton pants, while her outerwear jackets were yet another triumphant season for the brand. She added one specific high-tech jacket that changed from a leather suede to a its natural lambskin leather fabric; it was done so well it appeared the fabrics weren't event stitched together. She seemed to have shifted from her most talked about crocodile t-shirt, and instead opted to go for what seemed to be a python long sleeve light gray sweatshirt; a sumptuous choice of fabric that looked splendid for the brand.
Vibe: Paris Boys in L.A.
Kenzo can be mostly recognized for its iconic tiger print logo sweaters from its spring 2013 collection, which have had an outstanding street style success over the past season. It revived the brand to become a huge target amongst young teenagers who were eager to know who designed those super cool sweaters. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were thinking about how Parisian boys would look like traveling to L.A. Their color-block suits did imbue a California sensation that came in very relaxed silhouettes boys in L.A. would wear. The only difference is that Kenzo's version of L.A. would come with a dose of Parisian luxury. Shirt sleeve scribbled printed shirts and sweaters were pleasing to watch, and could become another potential success for the developing brand. Lean and Lim are still in works of finding the correct niche that could lead Kenzo to a greater height in fashion. So far, its cool artistic-ly sweaters have proven to be a beginning signature for the label.
Vibe: Sporty-Couture.
Alexis Mabille has a tendency to be a little to heavy in his menswear collections. They are of a high-luxe art, but his designs are best appreciating as a work of art, then wearing them. He may have understood by now that men's wear clothes differs greatly from womenswear. His last three collections have shown a much more casual vibe done in the Mabille manner: adding special doses of sportswear injected with couture.
His spring 2014 men's wear collection felt even more communicating to a broader audience. He went with high stitched scoop-neck tank tops that looked appealing with his very fitted navy and olive pants, etched with white linings around pockets, yoke, and a braided leather finished on the back of a pocket for a couture quality. Shirts came with epaulets finished on the sides. One hybrid piece was a mixture between a suit and a sweatshirt that was noteworthy for the new Mabille man. Sweaters printed with the phrase, "Tonight I wear Mabille so let's set the world on fire I can burn brighter than the sun," had an urban quality. His last look, pictured above in a short black suit and crisp white detailed shirt was that of the modern Mabille, but much more toned down.
Vibe: The Classic Denim Staple.
A.P.C. (Atelier de Production et de Cr�ation) has been around since 1987. The brand has established itself as a leader in easy to wear cool urban menswear pieces at fairly luxe prices. Their jeans are what have gained them a higher reputation in menswear for making one of the best well made jeans that are sure to last. Purchasing knitwear and outwear from this brand is a decision well made. They are always on the hunt for making a new collection that will always become a cool classical wardrobe staple to any of your looks.
Their new spring 2014 men's wear collection is yet to be another favorite amongst the many who appreciate the craftsmanship A.P.C. does finely. One camel colored suede jacket was the seasons must add to your next wardrobe staple.
Vibe: The Dapper Airport Arrival.
Alexandre Mattiussi of AMI had in mind an airport arrival from a vacation. His men - young, businesslike, and adventurous - were the main focus for his new spring 2014 men's wear collection. He added fun the way he believed a man should arrive from an airport. But what was more captivating was the choice of tailoring that made everything much more gratifying then from previous seasons.
He added camouflage and floral prints, stripes that looked fresh on a pair of trousers, Prince of Wales check suits that were paired with much more tailored shirts or cool knitted sweaters, pleasing denim numbers, and layering techniques that made the AMI guy compelling to watch arrive from an airport. We wish arrivals were this well put together in reality.
Day 3 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The Techno-African Nerd.
Computer nerds is what Riccardo Tisci had in mind for Givenchy's spring 2014 men's wear collection. Except he formed an African influence tribe style that is sure to create a much more massive alliance next season. Tisci doesn't have much styling to do, because he lets his intricate prints do the talking. It's an easy outfit for the Givenchy man that adds a powerful appeal to any look combined. That is perhaps why the brand has had such a successful season, because Tisci understands what men want: simple outfits with a cool amount of prints to choose from.
His prints - hard disks and computer parts - were invigoratingly vibrant and youthful compared to previous darker ones. Printed sweaters and t-shirts kept that luscious Parisian street style look that has become the main attraction of the Givenchy generation. He made his models appear athletic with his techno printed shorts matched with tight leggings. One printed parka was introduced with confidence, whilst his final looks of bolder stripes depicted the future tribe of Givenchy's attitude. At this point of his career, Riccardo Tisci has victoriously toughened up the brand, officially moving it into a very new chapter that may one day be difficult to get accustom to what was once the House of Givenchy.
Vibe: Sporty-formal.
Kris Van Assche may be one of those designers many may have rarely heard of, but have probably been familiar with his work pictured in several magazines. He likes to identify himself as the designer who mixes sportswear with suits. His spring 2014 men's wear collection may have been one of the strongest collection we had seen so far from him.
There were an incentive amount of details that depicted his sportswear movement: shirts with snap buttons, fluorescent zipper pockets, and elastic hems; parkas that were easy to style with shorts; slouchy-fitted trousers. A white dress shirt that was replaced for a zipper looked sporty-formal with a navy suit jacket and matching relaxed shorts. Another white dress shirt implied a little more formality with a printed crocodile texture effect that looked appealing with his fitted trousers; a favorite of mine. He also introduced an orange sweater, polo shirt, and shorts that had a crocodile embossed effect that appeared so realistic you had to get close enough to see it was a perfect print effect that scored high in Van Assche's collection. Sportswear and formalwear was something so great we weren't expecting from this collection.
Vibe: The Street Style Dandy.
The Berluti man is someone you would see pictured on the pages of many street style blogs. It's the combination of street, luxury, and casual formality that made the Berluti man much more interesting to watch. Alessandro Sartori did an excellent job taking the brand to the casual side of Bespoke. He presented a series of waistcoats and trousers that were cut shorter than average, giving it a unique appeal that didn't bring it down. Knitwear was noteworthy of the luxury standards that brand never fails at. What was more eye-catching were Sartori's purple numbered suits; the perfect tone of color. His leather jackets were also appropriate for the sportswear theme that has become very popular this season. And speaking of shoes, his two-tone lace-up shoes were the perfect match for this outstanding collection. It may be time to start saving up for one next season.
Day 2 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The European Traveling Around America.
The Louis Vuitton man is an explorer who loves to travel around the world. Creative director, Kim Jones also has a devotion for traveling. It is all a perfect match to deliver an exciting and compelling collection that leaves the Vuitton man with the right clothes to travel the world with style. This season Jones' models were given the pleasure to experience the different styles of American culture that were translated to Vuitton's exquisite DNA.
He opened the show with a checked-windowpane suit that imbued a formal-preppy style with sleeves rolled up, colorful bandanas, and remarkable pins that said Vuitton. He only added two labeled varsity jackets - in caramel and red - that were a frat guy's version of luxury. Outerwear appeared quite competitive to other high-end brands. A series of inspirational scout boy outfits heightened the looks with parkas sewn with badges and elbows stitched with crocodile skin. This was not your average scout boy look. Blousons - printed in faded LV symbols - were interesting to watch, whilst his tie-dye numbers had a surpassingly expensive, tough street boy appeal that could be sure to be a great hit in menswear.
Suits were kept intact to the way a Vuitton man would like them to be; somewhat slim and fitted all together. They only thing that modified were his introduction of silver dress shoes young man are sure to emulate now. A final silk (the most expensive silk) LV jacquard suit sent a strong message across: Vuitton has become such a powerful international company in the luxury market, using its logo has an excuse to anything.
Vibe: Mystical Floral Prints.
Dries Van Noten has become quite comfortable with his mien insets of color, texture, pattern, and signature tailoring. His spring 2014 men's wear collection felt much more stronger for the Van Noten man specifically in patterns. While most designers are going for more vibrant palettes of floral prints, he being the sort of rebel he infuses in his patterns, began with darker shades of metallic flowers that later turned into intense prints.
The first model came out in a sheer floral print tank top etched with a visual number "9," vintage floral track shorts, and an usual silky overcoat - printed in ghostly faded flowers - that were present in several other looks. His new printed shirts looked confident enough to wear in the fashion world, but maybe not so much in reality. Trousers had that relaxed-fitted silhouette typical in Van Noten's design. While most of his blazers may have been somewhat tasteless, one silk jacquard floral blazer (shown above) was noteworthy.
Van Noten's floral theme was his idea of giving it a unique tough and athletic look that has been so common in men's collection this season. Another mixture of inspirations common in Van Noten. He wanted to make his prints ones that said masculinity (perhaps that explains most of its color choice), but what may be agreeable to the Dries Van Noten man, may still be slowly digesting to the average man who may be fearing for the F word next season......Fashion.
Vibe: The Ideal "Men's" Closet.
Considering Oliver Rousteing's young age for a designer (27), his work at Balmain can be said with the most absolute affirmation, is the brand Real Man dress in. And it is also the brand with the highest price tag (one button-down shirt will retail around $700), but it so convincing you'd see it as an investment. It speaks a great amount of this designer to convince a man to pay such a price on other pieces of clothes that could simply turn into a DIY. He only designs what he'd wish were available in his wardrobe, which we'd wish we had a best friend like him.
For spring 2014, Mr. Rousteing was feeling a marine lifestyle the way Balmain would do it; much more edgier. There were still Balmain's classic signature Oliver has made presence of in newer versions: quilted leather jackets, pants, and boots (impressive); angular boxy jackets and suits in white and navy; and rich hand-painted denim numbers. He offered some fresh knits in marine stripes (white and navy), which were very gratifying. A newly marine suit resembled an original one, but in a much detailed and youthful version. He included some denim overalls that made you want to rescue yours from your basement to be on trend like the Balmain man. And if you didn't find it, Rousteing could easily convince you to get yours done by Balmain; expect a higher percentage. One final look - a lustrous blue leather suit with epaulets, and an intricate skinny-fitted denim/leather patchwork pants with a marine logo and zipper hems - were an executable record to the Balmain man. Sounds too perfect to be true, but it is.
Day 1 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The Sophistication of Military.
Ever since Valentino presented its first runway show back in fall 2012, there were pieces here and there that showed the powerful weapon the Valentino man could become. Recently, its spring 2013 military collection has been selling like hot pancakes with their camouflage sneakers being one of the most demanding shoes of the season. Fall 2013 became one of the most PERFECT collections in menswear that depicted Valentino's sartorial couture craftsmanship so beautifully. And for its new spring 2014 men's collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli felt it was adequate to make its militant bespoke designs an official signature of the Valentino man.
The show began with a series of suits and shirt jackets beautifully split into various shades of denim that felt invigoratingly new to the brand. One blue denim parka was a stand innovation for the duo; so light and tailored. Others pieces noteworthy were their second olive and navy numbers that included a suit, coat, and parka as well. What were worth an investment were their leather shirt jackets - in burgundy, and olive - that looked so appealing with their black etched tape lining around one pocket, and epaulets that described the militant mood of the collection. Other illusional black leather tape linings followed in tan, electric blue, gray, navy, and camouflage print jackets and sweaters.
Trousers, which at far appeared to be only camouflage prints, when viewed closed enough were actually faded prints of daisies infused with its military design. Other printed trousers paired with sharp white t-shirts looked somewhat too casual (rebellious) for the Valentino man, but were intriguing to watch a new style emerge. Formalwear was by far much more of a synthesis of bespoke than a seasonal men's collection. In other words an impeccable high luxury "couture" triumph for Chiuri and Piccioli.
Vibe: Safety Pins and Urban Raincoats.
Balenciaga is still a developing brand that is perhaps less successful in its menswear division than its womenswear collections. Alexander Wang has been taking the brand in a very different route. Since been appointed creative director, he's developed a signature symbol for the house: the maillon, which is a thicker metal that resembles a safety pin. They were obvious in suits and pants, which created a sort of punk-y style to the looks. Tailoring wasn't so appreciable. He also included two dark-striped raincoats which made it confusing to understand the inspiration behind this collection. There were in fact new elements in the collection that were of Wang's influence: sleek leather black boots, knitwear, and pleasing shorts that were cut just above the knee. Wang has in fact established a good reputation to the Balenciaga woman, but there is still more work to be done in its menswear line.
Vibe: The Freedom of Simons.
Raf Simons is a show that will never leave you disappointed. Simons keenly knows how to leave you with doubt if this is what menswear will look like in the future? He uses the future to his advantage to deliver a show with high-fashion structure in fabric, design, and battle against severe masculinity. That was the shocking opening for his new spring 2014 men's collection. The first model came out in a full one-piece black outfit that resembled a shorter version of an adult onesie.
Those are Simons' influence, so NEW that a specific name for this designs didn't come to mind. The Simons shirt romper? Simons' can be better known for his fine taste in tailoring, but in this collection everything was about "freedom." His suits were more relaxed, but his pants much more skinnier to give it a special mood with those innovative sneakers. T-shirts were "the new shape of comfort," as one shirt implied. Other florescent embroidered shirts declared why Simons' is one of the best in menswear t-shirts.
There was a variety of compulsive pieces to choose from in this collection. It may just have to be viewed with a separate eye for each design. Raf Simons' menswear collection is one of the most anticipated shows in Paris Men's Fashion Week due to his unique ideas that are only available at his presentation. He introduced us to cheetah prints, floral prints, abstract art, shorts spliced deep in the sides, and much more graphical techniques. At this point of his career he should be proud of himself to say I made that men's shirt romper first. It may take time though for most men to get comfortable in a new type of skin.
