A Moderate Finale for New York Fashion Week Spring 2014

A review from the Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein Collection, and Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 shows. 

From Left: Details of a Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 coat; Calvin Klein cotton tweed deconstructed seams; Ralph Lauren spring 2014 floral pattern trench coat.

The last day of New York Fashion Week contains one of the most anticipated and recognizable international designers of all time. It sounds appropriate to end fashion week with such designers like Ralph Lauren, Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein, and Marc Jacobs. But contrary to day 6 and 7 that included one of the best shows of the season � Narciso Rodriguez, Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, etc. � day 8 (the last day) wasn�t so compelling after all for these three designers. 

Ralph Lauren has always had a talent for telling such a beautiful and romantic story. It�s hard not to grasp what the designer�s new theme is all about. For his new upcoming spring 2014 collection, there was a minute I thought a new creative director had been hired to take over the label. The clothes looked like something similar you�d find at a commercial retail store. I felt disappointed there were not that many truly designer pieces that conveyed a gorgeous detailed story like last season�s Russian inspired coats and dresses most women would dream of becoming the protagonist. 

He began with sporty (60s inspired) school uniform looks in black and white that later transformed into stripes, and patterned suits accessorized with big chunky ties. They added a very youthful appeal to the new collection, especially when paired with his midi A-line skirts and black leggings. His geometric and floral print numbers were simply nice and pretty, not aweing. He also wanted to introduce a series of strong neon colors � green, orange, yellow, red, and blue � that turned up to be nostalgic. There was a great start to the cut of these sporty designs, but it was clear that if Mr. Lauren would have used his perfectly feminine pastel colors, these looks would have added much more presence.  Evening dresses like a blue neon one Karlie Kloss wore above or a final red dress with a cape were the most convincing ones in this minimalistic collection.

Mr. Lauren knows how to do great evening gowns just like any other piece in his collection, but taking into consideration how much emphasis he has put into his previous collections of masterpiece, this may be the first time and the only time this collection lacks character. But was this collection nice? Yes, indeed, but we know Mr. Lauren can do so much more than this when it comes to his personal COLLECTION. 

At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa wanted to expose deconstructed seams to say the least. It looked better in pictures than it did close-up. The clothes had a nice message of a minimalistic touch in most of the looks, even though most pieces seemed to have been unsewn at the hems and sides of tops. 

The first model came out with a white strapless top and skirt that looked awkward with those exposed side seam allowance I�d wonder how many women would want to be walking around with their seams and threads exposed; his colored cotton tweed � red, mint, and pink � made an interesting intro to the classical colors of the label �black, gray, and white. There could have been a great potential for his new jackets to become a hit if only he wouldn�t have added too much confusing patchworks into them.

His most innovative looks that imbued a subtle couture sensibility were his yarn like threads that acted as fringe. He used some colored threads to etch into one woven leather black jacket and skirts, but his final three looks of fringed dresses were the ones that were noteworthy. And if you though everything was lost, his snake print tops and dresses patchworked from graphic leather and silk (above) were what minimalism should have been all about in this collection. 

I believe the collection could have worked, but the problem with the clothes was Francisco�s use of stiff fabric that didn�t help much. It became an esoteric collection maybe even editors themselves didn�t quite grasp. One thing I did admire about Mr. Costa in this new collection was his attempt to experiment with more proportions while keeping the Calvin Klein aesthetics untouched.

If you didn�t quite understand what Francisco Costa was trying to do, then you certainly may have been confused with Marc Jacobs� new spring collection. It felt more wintery then summer with those dark bulky clothes that went down the mystical setting. Well, the clothes did go well together with the dirty, gothic, vintage runway props that were built for the show. And somehow, this was a weird collection for Mr. Jacobs that worked in some sort of way.

His oversized shoulder jackets embroidered with tassels weren�t that pleasing, but his detailed shorts were the ones that may have a potential when next summer arrives. His jackets would have been very enticing if only he would have toned down those shoulders, but he seemed to have known the audience reaction, and he did lower its volume in some of them; Mr. Jacobs always knows. Other chunky leaf patterned tops and dark colored sweaters matched with beaded skirts and Uggs look alike were just amusing. I actually happened to find his leaf patterned and final embroidered dresses quite normal for a casual day paired with sneakers or sandals. 

The most important part one should understand about Marc Jacobs is that he is a risk taker, and the woman who wears his label is one who is very confident in who she is. She doesn�t have a season in her wardrobe as well as a dress code from daywear to evening. She just puts whatever on, and as long as its luxury, doesn�t give a damn about what the rest have to say. And that�s what we love about a Marc Jacobs show. You never know what he�ll bring next season.

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An Approach to Minimal Femininity at Spring 2014 Shows

From left: Close-up geometric cuts of a Narciso Rodriguez brocade dress; A bronze metallic textured cropped top; A black chiffon with a ruched detailed bodice.

It is no secret that American designers have one of the best luxury sportswear aesthetics women want. Something European designers envy when it comes to loosening naturally in such a manner. Americans love the mix of casualty, semi-formal, and luxury when dressing up, and American designers understand that demand very well; there was such a minimalistic approach designers took this time with sportswear. And even though we tend to focus more on international designers at the end, there were fascinating pieces some designers offered for next season at New York Fashion Week spring 2014 that proved to be on top of the league.

Narciso Rodriguez crowned himself with one of the best shows of the season. Minimalism is hard to master, but not for this incredible designer. There was something so intriguing about what Narciso did with proportion, cuts, and simplicity that put him on a high level of must see designers. He�s been keeping hems just below the knee for the past few seasons, but his new collection was all about bringing hems to the mid-thigh or even higher yet perfectly managing in keeping a refined ladylike balance; no vulgarity. 

He opened the show with a perfectly cut graphic white wool and black leather jacket that looked appealing with his dubbed version of a mini-skirt; they were actually short shorts with a panel at the front. Other skirts � ones cut to form double layers, other etched with different shades of fabric, and two white and black skirts layered over long chiffon fabric � were invigorating. 

What put him on the spotlight of triumph were not only his skirts, but his superb approach to minimalism, which wasn�t so minimalistic after all. The clothes were put together piece by piece in a very intriguing way that looked so effortless. I couldn�t have imagined how long it took to cut small slices of brocades and stitched them all together to look unified, or his detailed fringed embroidered tops which I suppose were more than embroidery as were his technical use of sheer, chiffon, and organza constructed into one slipdress. 

His final dresses were simply terrific. At far or in pictures, they appeared to have been embroidered or laced, but in reality those shiny patches were none the less but silk bonded to these dresses; it made you want to be close and personal to these light beauties.

 I haven�t had the opportunity to meet Mr. Rodriguez in person, but he appears so humble and shy that his simplicity of light spaghetti dresses (no one does it better than him) and super sharp tailoring make a sumptuous minimalism that just clicks for him. His pastel colors � pink, orange, grays, yellow � and black and white were feminine but sexy without overlooking it. It was almost a perfect collection - even shoes and handbags - other designers should start taking note.

Reed Krakoff was also fighting to imbue a minimalistic touch of femininity. It worked in some, like his asymmetrical chiffon dresses with a ruched bodice or nice looking satin sleeveless trench. But it lacked creativity, because even though Mr. Krakoff may be one to love for his sportiness and sharp tailoring (it was present here), there are other labels already producing these type of looks. Mr. Krakoff can become a copycat if he doesn�t awe with his innovation. But again, he left Coach to put more time into his own label, and with all the scandal that had been going on with his departure, I�ll let this one pass. One thing I admired though was his luxurious satin techniques, something the Rodarte sisters should take note; pictures can fool you from the true messy reality. It was also nice to see an intricate mesh appliqu� of flowers on a white dress; it earned him some bonus points.

At Oscar de la Renta there was really not that much to talk about. Mr. de la Renta is a genius who always has something available for every generation of women. From Karlie Kloss�s opening luxurious lady look � double-face sleeveless coat, cardigan, and pencil skirt � to strapless dresses, like a short salmon chiffon detailed dress for those young girls who need a little mix of class and youthfulness. It makes sense for Mr. de la Renta and for me.

Botanical prints were just the perfect brush of femininity, embroidery like a white numbered one above I could see any kind of women in, and lace and crochet numbers were a triumph for this icon. He knows what women want and does it in a very American sophisticated manner. It�s impossible to leave an Oscar de al Renta show without feeling cheerful and with great memories of beautiful pastel colors. Just like any other, his new gorgeous embroidered and tulle evening dresses, can leave any women feeling like a princess. A light green puffed up textured dress was one I had some younger girls� state they�d be dreaming for their Quinceanera. Gorgeous Mr. de la Renta. Just a gorgeous collection.

And while some were producing ladylike and minimalistic clothes, the guys at Proenza Schouler were trying to give it all with their urban luxe. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are the designers everyone wants to hang out with. In simpler terms, they know how to make something look cool and effortless. They have a keen eye for superior craftsmanship that always awes. This season they seemed to have taken an approach to minimalistic urban wear, which wasn�t the most aweing thing to see but neither was it horrible. They boys somehow have learned to mix a designer collection with marketing techniques that work well, like in their new collection.

Their wide crepe pants cut well above the ankle were the ones that were noteworthy paired with lustrous metallic cropped tops and straight peplum suede tops. A burgundy red dress with a wrap skirt, along others was pleasing. Their lurex knit evening dresses and metallic pleated skirts were also show stopper. If this was their approach for still looking effortless, it worked, but I would have loved some more hardcore structures that I�ve been fond of for the past few seasons.

Last but not least, Michael Kors was the one who definitely knew how to balance his marketing side between his new collection. It was ridiculously chic and energetic. This would be the collection women would happily wake up to take their kids to school, go grocery shopping, take a walk along the park, and do so much more feeling feminine and effortless in what they wore. Even the models conveyed a fresh look with those minimum hairstyles.

It was as simple as putting on a slender white trench coat that added so much femininity with that flirty light brown belt, or layering on a light vibrant cardigan over your printed cropped bra top and pencil skirt. Crochet numbers were also beautiful and chic. And silk beaded dresses were perfect for a special meeting or date.

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More Spring 2014 NYFW Shows: Tory Burch and Timo Weiland

Vibe: Going to the French Riviera Honey.

�The Easy Glamour of the French Riviera in the late 1960s.� That was Tory Burch�s inspiration for her new spring 2014 collection; it clicked immediately when a French country song played before the show. It�s hard not to love Tory Burch in the spring. There are some nice fall pieces to choose from in her label, but you have to agree spring is her niche. It�s flirty, youthful, and descent. Just what women need for a hot summery day in the Riviera. 

She opened the show with a beautiful white embroidered botanical print cotton dress that made its presence on other tops and pants. Her creative designs of embroidery and applique were the highlight of the show. It was even more captivating to see the final pieces of jeweled-collared dresses that would look effortlessly glamorous for any occasion; no need to accessorize. She also offered simpler botanical prints, like ones printed on jeans and cute dresses, the South would greatly appreciate.

Chic were her peter pan collar numbers � a green crochet and silk dress, jersey and crepe de chine print tops, knits etched with these collars, and other embroidered and laser-cut leather dresses. There was a lot of potential for this collection to be a success when spring arrives next season. Without a doubt, her collection was easy on eye, but with very luxurious fabrics. I can already picture girls wanting those white leather-laced dresses accessorized with her belt wrapped around her lower waist and mini bag for a hot summery day. And for those flirtier girls, her introduction of swimwear pieces were a must have. 

Vibe: Just the clothes you want to wear _______.

Timo Weiland is quite a new brand that just keeps growing in a very positive manner. When it comes to menswear, the designers (Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein) know how to execute something with refined tailoring. They�ve mastered menswear very well though, but they are still developing their mastering for womenswear.

It wasn�t quite clear what the inspiration was for their spring 2014 collection. Although, we could tell there was a sporty mood transmitting in some of their looks.  Either way, when prices come fair, I�d admit I have to let this one slip off. What worked here were their tank tops, a graphic sleeveless white dress with ruffled hems that created a two-piece set (tank and skirt); bonus points, an interesting print for a must have cropped top, and some knitwear and patchwork pieces (like one color-block dress with an open waist). Those were interesting to watch, and just appreciate the designers are taking time to mix fabric to make them work together without looking dull; great color and fabric use in most of their looks.

In the men�s side, they only presented five looks, but were enough to make them great pieces to incorporate into a men�s wardrobe next season. That light white cardigan with black spaced lines had the right elements for a summer look, and their outerwear jackets were worthy of a try, like their black leather hoodie any guy would want. 

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Spring 2014 Shows: Victoria Beckham, Derek Lam, and More

Victoria Beckham really stepped it up this season. She was looking for a boyish sportswear tailoring look, and she made it look flawlessly chic. Other designers have really gone for the tomboy 90s looks, but not her. There were so many special pieces in this collection that separated her from other designers themes that looked overt (I could name several now). Fashion is not meant for everyone � not even for celebrities who get criticized harshly when in a collaboration � but I�ll state it again, and with all the confidence in the world, Victoria Beckham is not a celebrity anymore, she�s a true designer who has earned the respect of many. 

She�s gaining confidence (and a good one) in outerwear. She began her show with a relaxed black and white ruffled top and cropped pants (these contained a very sharp tailoring) paired over a crispy white rounded shoulder suit jacket. There was only one white baseball jacket she showed � detailed with black cuffs and collar, and transparent sheer sleeves � that was breathtaking. Her sleeveless suit vests were also noteworthy. Yes, it was only a small percentage of outerwear, but enough to go for one (or two in another color).

 Now, if there was anything that assured Victoria Beckham�s designer aesthetics for details and high-tech fabric combos were the following: her midi skirts slashed to show details of pleats underneath (an interesting way to show creativity on layering), and her laser-cut inverted triangles � in fuchsia and white - etched on shirts. Beckham is better known for her immaculate glove-fitted dresses every women dreams of, but this new soft tailoring collection sure does have another run for the money. Oh, and if you wondered how Mrs. Beckham dressed for her applause, she wore a white shirt with her cropped blacked pants. So posh. 

Derek Lam is a designer who has been designing clothes for women. Sounds obvious, but that�s the only thing that comes to mind when you see his collections. His graphic checked prints were simply easy on the eye. That is what women want. Luxury clothes that looks effortless and gorgeous. There were some that may have not loved this collection, being that Mr. Lam designs for a more mature lady. But for the woman who has the opportunity to encounter with a Derek Lam piece, she sure has come across a beautiful treasure. 

He had lots to offer for next spring 2014; his color-block numbers from last season have been a sensation. His belted coats � washed gray and blue denim � may have looked minimal, but at a close-up you could appreciate all its details. Highly structured raffia skirts (especially one in yellow) and dresses were luxurious for such a fabric. These is how we�d want our mature girls rocking something out, and for younger girls, going bananas over those gladiator heels. 

DKNY, Donna Karan�s youthful sister label, conveyed a good energy for next season. Sportswear was yet again the theme of Karan�s spring 2014 presentation. Honestly, there never seems to be an inspirational theme that focuses on each collection, but the cool sporty looks make up for the uncertain themes. It is a ready-to-wear line after all, and DKNY finds ways to make each season seem different. 

Her vintage bandana prints were refreshing, while her denim fabrics � overalls and patchwork jeans � sent a 90s vibe that later affirmed with her sneaker looks and logo dresses. Her lavender and turquoise numbers projected much more girl power. One silk orange spaghetti strap dress Karlie Kloss wore seemed appropriate for a casual day to go shopping for some groceries yet well put together. 

Diane Von Furstenberg also had an �oasis� going on at her show. Her clothes never fail, are always marketed at fair prices and best of, are made for any type of curvy woman. We can tell she never thinks about clothes they way she wants them to be on skinny girls. Yes, thin models model her collections, but right away there are many options for women to choose from here.

There were selections of wilder prints to more tone down ones. She went from nice cropped tops to color-block and animal print gold buttoned denim shirts made for everyone. And her iconic wrap dresses updated to still look good on any woman.

 The most important part of wearing a DVF piece is having fun in it, and that�s what some of her smiling and graceful models were projecting. This is why she is the president of the CFDA. She herself is her own muse, managing to look youthful in anything she wears at her age, and so should you in her designs. Maybe that�s why she had the queen of the runway, Naomi Campbell, confirm that in one short gold embroidered dress. Age has no limits at DVF.

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Spring 2014 Shows| Prabal Gurung, Altuzarra, and More

Designer: Prabal Gurung

Sweet colors. That was Prabal Gurung�s idea of his new Spring 2014 �preserved elegance.� The theme didn�t quite convey the message in the clothes, but it did help with the setting. The models began the show with lining each other in two rows inside a plastic covered curtain and a melancholy song that made up for the lost theme. It felt more futuristic, which was something that did imbue in Mr. Gurung�s high-tech fabrics. 

The show began with a white cotton sheath number that exposed a plastic harness in the back. He really wants his harnesses to become a wardrobe staple for women. 

He played around with what he does best at � digital prints. It was captivating to see prints etched on plastic skirts and raincoats (every woman should own one of this), tweed, paper-thin leather, and glossy satin colored pieces that were major. His pastel colors � pink, lavender, green, red, baby blue, and yellow � made up a beautiful rainbow for a Saturday afternoon. Surprisingly, there were only three pants shown in the entire collection, but all had a great potential to sell out, especially that hot fitted lavender one with white details. Some final evening or cocktail dresses were also red carpet ready. Say that eye catching baby blue sweetheart satin dress we can�t get out of our minds yet.

Maybe he meant to make this collection preservation for the future of elegance. If that were the case, he outdid himself. But if were to implement harsh fashion into this review, who would this remind you of? Wouldn�t you see a dose of Prada or something our true fashion innovator, Raf Simons, has already done at Dior?

Designer: Alexander Wang

If there was anything present at Alexander Wang�s Spring 2014 collection, it was full on retro 90s. The setting reminded one of a badass school playground. Mr. Wang knows very well how to communicate with the streets, and it sure was present here. Street style has been the sole that has turned his label into a fanatic obsession amongst young liberating teenagers. 

The first three ruffled miniskirts � gray, blue, and pink � with white waistbands were sexy for the beginning of the show. It followed along with a number of gray cropped slouchy gray pants that looked the best in their white waistbands. There was something sort of fetish-y with some of the looks Wang sent out � hospital type gowns, men�s boxer-inspired shorts, single-buttoned collar shirts, �Parental advisory explicit content� tops, and laser-cut leather provocative overalls encrypted with �Alexander Wang.�

He brought back the logomania 90s with his �Alexander Wang� printed tops, laser-cut �Wang� leather gloves, and more that was put in your face. His best looks of the show were a black leather laser-cut �Wang� coat, and his visible stitched denim jackets. And we can�t forget about those overalls we hope to see someone wearing very soon discretely if they can. Overall, these pieces certainly had a demand for that target audience, and it was refreshing to see Wang include a slightly bit of color into his clothes this time. 

Designer: Altuzarra

Altuzarra is one of the most anticipated shows in New York, and one of favorites amongst editors who we see wearing his label all the time. Joseph Altuzzara went for a more liberating tailoring this time, narrowing his structured embellishments to simply �layers.� Don�t take it wrong though, because if it�s Altuzarra doing his version of layering, it�ll be in the most genuine and luxurious manner. 

The show began with Joan Smalls wearing a silk striped button-down shirt and high-thigh semi-fringed skirt. If the first look said easiness with her shirt unbuttoned all the way to her waist, the rest was even more intriguing. Just about all skirts came with super-high slits on the left, but with Altuzarra�s signature of casual fringing. The most interesting skirts were the ones that seemed to be derived from an original button-down shirt cut to form a simple skirt; these will generate opinions and DIY when prices are revealed. 

The silk and layered shirts were the best part of this collection, but if the Altuzarra woman had something to say about these pieces it�d be in his suit jackets fitted to look easily luxurious with anything. His liquid silver and gold numbers � skirts, top, and dresses � brought a soft tailoring that were noteworthy. 

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Spring 2014 RTW Shows: Cushnie et Ochs, and Rag & Bone

We know Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, of Cushnie et Ochs, excel at creating sexy skin-tight, angular cut-out dresses. They've created a renowned signature based on these detailed dresses, celebrities - Selena Gomez, Katie Couric, Eva Longoria - and even the First Lady have been a fan of. They seek ways to take sexiness to a new modern level, but they may now be getting tired of people portraying them as the simple 'sexy cut-out dress' brand. 

It was not so much the case anymore as we saw at their new Spring 2014 presentation. They stepped into newer territories that haven't been particularly familiar to the brand, but were invigoratingly sexy and lustrous to watch. 

Their new collection derived from 'straight jackets and strapping details,' as the designers pointed out. "Lots of belting, binding, and slices of skin," were more than enough to see the designers taking details to another chapter in the brand. Karlie Kloss opened the show with a white skin-exposed (waist and upper shoulder) dress strapped by elastic that referenced to those hems in jacket. Seamless knitwear pieces made a strong entrance here. It was interesting to also have seen them put a noteworthy effort in their pants. It showed everyone they too are capable of making a great white crispy-ribbed pant look sexy in all its form; another favorite was a black buckled detailed pant. Prints made a second appearance that also put them on the spotlight of innovation. And their expansion of sexy one-piece (one white buckled detailed piece was everything), and two-piece swimsuits were another big score for the duo. 

Other fabrics - sheer, snakeskin, and silk - expanded the choice of their signature viscose fabric. It was just not about sexy, exposed body-hugging silhouettes anymore, but refined sensuality. Colors - white, gray, light brown, purple, and black - may still have been of few color palettes, but felt high-end designer without a doubt. If the designers were taking new action into their label, and judging from this collection, one can't disagree they're going along the right path to a bigger success. Can we pre-order now?

Rag & Bone designers, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, seemed to have shifted their tomboy signature looks into a more feminine yet youthful approach. The brand has been popular among young teenagers for quite a while, but not as much amongst editors and fashion critics. At this point of their career, the designers know who their main clients are, and it was obvious who their Spring 2014 womenswear collection was made for.

The new collection had way more feminine pastel colors that could be a sensation next season - peach, turquoise, crisp whites, lavender, pink - and of course, black. It was interesting to have seen them take on more silky and flow-y fabrics that looked cool as the models walked down the runway. Last season (fall 2013), the duo took the crown with their menswear inspired fabrics, which was an easy task, given that the designers English tailoring techniques make up part of their label. This season though was more about relaxed tailoring, but kinky, when it came to those cropped leather tops, dropped v-neck sweaters, sheer polos, and spaghetti strap slip-dresses. And when it came to their slouchy-fitted colored pants and blazers, you know  a number of young girls would die for one of these.

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Jason Wu's Spring 2014 Feminine Approach to Easy Glamour

Jason Wu is no longer a 23 year-old fashion designer who designed for young girls back in his days. His grown, and so has his label - matured in a very beautiful and empowering feminine manner. It all started with cute designs, then luxury aesthetics, edgy tailored pieces, provocation (who can't remember his Spring 2013 one), and last season he tried to give us his "most mature and Extreme Femininity" collection. He's always looking for ways to intertwine real femininity - sensuality, authority, delicacy, sophistication - with his luxurious silhouettes; it'd make sense why First Lady, Michelle Obama, had chosen Mr. Wu twice to wear his designs for such special occasions. And for his new Spring 2014 collection, the designer embarked on another triumphant journey of the female silhouette.......making relaxed daywear tailoring feel as glamorous and easy as life should be.

He wanted to create "a dialogue between construction and ease," and it most certainly was present here. The collection emphasized much more on daywear - strong jumpsuits, safari vests in chiffon that only covered certain body parts with its pockets, trench coats paired with lace corsets on back for structure, an intricate biker jacket, knitwear tops, and sleeveless suit jackets - without loosing Wu's signature. He even included one swimsuit and kaftans paired with see-through lingerie laced details. Lacing was his sensuality etched in other jackets and dresses, like one white strapless piece. His constructed shorts and pants were noteworthy of an order, making every look seem effortlessly well put together.

What took away the show here though were his sumptuous metallic embroidered numbers of chiffon dresses - halter neck and spaghetti straps - that came in various colors (gold, light green, light gray, white, blue, and black). They may have been the most relaxed yet tailored dresses Mr.Wu had ever presented for a collection, but their delicate cowl-like drapery on the back transmitted luxury. These dresses were not meant to wear at night, because Wu envisioned them for daywear as did his other looks, and he may be on track of setting a trend of metallic embroidered dresses as the new must have "it" dress for casualness. I mean, who said glamour begins at night, when daytime is when you shine the most? Mr. Wu understood all that very clearly.

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NYFW Spring 2014| BCBGMAXAZRIA, Richard Chai, and More

Day 1 of New York Fashion Week:

Vibe: Men's Dress Shirts Turned Dress.

The BCBGMAXAZRIA Spring 2014 "collection celebrates men's tailoring in the most feminine form," were the designers brief description of their new collection. If men's tailoring has been such a popular trend in womenswear, the duo seemed to have taken advantage of a simple white dress shirt and deconstructed it into several detailed pieces to inject into their presentation. 

The first model came out with what could have been an inspirational oversized shirt - plackets spliced, collar loosened, sleeves wrapped around waist, and a technical pleat effect - with a side patchwork of stamped florals for femininity. The rest continued on with fabric colors - white, gray, baby blue, and peach - that reminded one these dresses, skirts, or pants came from a men's dress shirt; a favorite of mine was a white cropped top designed with cuffs and pleats for a cool streetstyle moment. The designers definitely showed they took time to analyze every detail that some us may not have known was hidden in a classic men's button-down shirt.

And while men's tailoring may have been their newly developed collection, they couldn't let go of their iconic sheer dresses in beautiful palettes of floral prints that made their presence in the second half of the runway. Last season may have been about layering your sheer dresses, but this season they made sure these pieces spoke for themselves - so lighthearted, feminine, and youthful.

The new collection may have been somewhat of an easy statement for some, but you can't deny that designers, Lubov and Max Azria, have understood that details are what make a collection noteworthy of a great designer. And details here were more than enough to place an order for next season.

Vibe: Relaxed Tailoring. Fitted Biker Jackets.

Richard Chai has always had a good sense of youthful tailoring, but his Spring 2014 collection seemed to have gone to a state of freedom, soft tailoring, but very structured biker jackets. His menswear pieces  have been one of his strongest points in his collections, gathering the likes of celebrities like Jonas Brothers, Colton Haynes, Zachary Quinto, and others to wear some of his coveted menswear pieces. Womenswear had another slightly opinionated approach this time.

Some of his tailoring techniques seemed a little off with hems of pants dramatically oversized, causing a model to trip more than once while walking down the runway. His pairing of skirts over pants were somewhat kitsch to say the least. It was maybe his choice of fabrics that didn't aid him in creating what he was looking forward in his women's side; some fabrics should have been crispier in terms of relaxed tailoring. But not all was lost, because his striped tops, cropped tops (a must have), and final black looks had more of what Richard Chai was working to portray; some dresses were worth a try as well. Oh, and if anything there was to admire about his womenswear counterpart, it had to be his intricate and fitted biker jackets - in white, red, and black - young girls will be greatly pleased with.

His new menswear spring 2014 collection had everything the Richard Chai men looks forth next summer. There is always something cool about Mr.Chai that men appreciate the most. He also went for more relaxed tailoring that suited his men the best - oversized tank tops, polos, and trousers. Short shorts have been quite a trend for next season, but he kept a consistent and masculine tailoring his clients will enjoy. Outerwear pieces, like his biker jackets, were also eye catching at this runway.

It may not have been the best of the season for Richard Chai's womenswear side, but it certainly was another great season for his menswear side. Wait to see some male celebrities sitting front row today rocking his biker jackets or shorts very soon.

Vibe: A Whimsical Paradise of Beautiful Details.

Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters have had their label, Creatures of the Wind, running since 2008. It is difficult for new upcoming designers to survive in the fashion industry when you know you're competing against other much more recognizable designers that may put you as a replica. But they've managed to stay true to their brand since the beginning, introducing unique and quirky patchwork designs that have become a signature of theirs; their prints can sometimes feel very vintage though. Last season, they managed to deliver an outstanding collection with impeccable details that made them noteworthy of their brand. Their spring 2014 collection was yet another season with richer colors and DETAILS. 

The designers have really been demonstrating everyone they too can make a great top. The first model walked down the runway in a western inspired shirt jacket that could have gotten the audience at the show to purchase one right away. And what to say about the gold and silver metallic shirts that are capable to be a streetstyle sensation nowadays. It was also nice to have seen the designers tone down their whimsy patchworks and have them conservatively injected into one beautiful pink color-block trenchcoat. When it came to dresses, there was something youthful in some of their dresses - a baby pleated dress and a light brown leather color-block dress - that was surprising to see considering the designers like for a more mature audience. For those who are vintage mature lovers, you may find great skirt here, but for the wilder ones it may pass, although speaking fashion, these skirts were a must have in editorials.

For now, Creatures of the Wind seemed to have demonstrated it's meant for everyone - you have to learn how to separate clothes by piece here for your personal style - making this collection a very sellable one. You can now find a great piece of outerwear or top that is luxuriously detailed, but in order to rise to the top, their fit in skirts or pants, should be taken more attention if they'd like to reach a wider audience of all ages. But aside from that very small complaint, the rest was to indulge in a collection that "is about the perfect land, and imagined paradise."

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Paris Men's Fashion Week 2014: Saint Laurent, Lanvin, and More

Day 5 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week

Vibe: The Dark Rock n' Roll.

Hedi Slimane created quite a controversy ever since he decided to changed the phase of the new Saint Laurent spirit. His first two shows felt like a huge slap from many fashion critics who couldn't bare to see how Saint Laurent would turn into a horrendous rock inspired label. It only took a season when his collection was finally available in most retailers, that most of us understood Mr. Slimane was in fact selling pure luxury; it has now become a big sensation amongst its young rebellious audience.

Slimane seemed more confident of himself for his new Saint Laurent spring 2014 menswear collection. This collection felt way more appealing than his first menswear debut for the label. It was obvious we were to expect another sort of California rock theme fulfilled with lots of black leather, skinny boys, and surprisingly a more relaxed tune. Perhaps it could have been that by know one should be very well acquainted of what the Slimane is focusing on: having a voice towards its youthful audience who want the taste of that rock clean luxury. No need for more drama.

He introduced a series of mesh shirts, polka dot dress shirts, and exquisitely tailored skinny trousers which could have been perfectly appealing on an average model. His suits - leopard prints, checked-windowpanes, and gold sequins - were just a few pleasing noteworthy numbers, whilst his outerwear designs, such as one silver varsity jacket, could become a great hit next season.

On an average perspective, Slimane's decision to letting very skinny boys wear his clothes on the runway, brings down the collecting quite a bit. They say that first impression is what counts, and his skinny guys are the unappealing impression. But once viewed on a well fitted model, it is unbelievable how powerful Saint Laurent still remains after all the changes. His sharp tailoring lets the clothes speak for themselves. It is as if Slimane enjoys playing with our minds. One day we could say the collection was terrible, and the next day we see a famous star porting Saint Laurent's clothes or accessories, you can find us searching for that piece to incorporate into our wardrobe.

Today, Saint Laurent is one of the go to brands for the bad girl/boy who wants to set a statement in those black leather numbers that have become the signature of the new brand. His motorcycle jackets are the most coveted designer ones; a classic now as stated in their description. The only difference about being a bad Saint Laurent girl/boy is having the necessary amount of money to satisfy ones need, because prices for these babies - a jacket retailing at $5,900 - fits more the spoiling brat who doesn't give a hell how the economy is right now.

Vibe: Strong Silhouettes.

While many men's wear designers were going for strong floral prints, Lanvin went with not a single dose of print. Instead they focused on their tough relaxed tailoring, which made this collection one of the strongest presentations of paris men's spring 2014 fashion week. 

Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver went with a number of matching rich silk pants (pajama-like) and t-shirts that were a stand innovation for the duo. Their was something in their style that imbued an urban masculine appeal most men could favor. Being pure silk the choice of fabric that could lean towards femininity, there was none of that feminine l'air in these looks. Suits - less strictly tailored - were actually pleasing to see coming from Lanvin. Perhaps their precise choice of fabric and color is what made them one of the best relaxed silhouettes compared to other brands; so mesmerizing.

Texture was replaced for prints. It was intriguing to see a pair of trousers (pictured right above) with such a luxurious texture you could easily feel when zoomed closer. At far they could have been perceived as a fading print, but they were actually a living print just as were their glossy sweatshirts and tank tops. It seems Lanvin came with a stronger force of authority in men's fashion this season, which we hope continues on to next season so triumphantly. 

Vibe: A Joyful Life of Living Colors.

Color is the living DNA of the Paul Smith man. Tailoring is also what makes his colors more refreshening to watch. And the injection of youthfulness in his designs finish describing who is the Paul Smith guy. To say the least, his spring 2014 menswear collection was enough to understand the brand without too much fashion vocabulary: easy and joyfully stylish.

His suits, slim-ly tailored with insects of different colors on hems of sleeves and suits, were quite pleasing to see, but maybe not so gratifying to see on his color-block trousers. They weren't poorly made by no means, but there was something missing to them; just blah. If some his outerwear jackets could have had less zippers and more emphasis in construction, they would have been the perfect ones to wear. There was one navy and white checked blouson that made a nice intro. 

What were noteworthy were his colorful sweaters and short-sleeve shirts. In conclusion it seems there will always be four things we will always be fond to see Mr. Paul Smith design exquisitely: a great suit jacket; a pair of great tailored trousers with no color-block or prints; an outstanding casual or dress shirt with or without youthful prints; and a delightful sweater that will never be out of style no matter what season were in.

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Paris Fashion Week 2014: Dior, Hermes, Kenzo, and More

Day 4 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week

Vibe: Doing Business at the Beach.

"Just think how you negotiate wearing a tuxedo on a beach," were part of Kris Van Assche's description for Dior Homme Spring 2014 menswear collection. "It's formality and informality: choice, chance, and lightness."

Making a color choice was very straightforward here. Red wine, blue, light gray, and black were the only options. Most of the collection became a repetition of either looks in shorts or slim trousers, suits or vests, and in either subtler leather patchworks, that made one reflect what could have been the perfect outfit to go on a negotiation. But what if you were to rewind back to the beginning of the collection and take a closer look at each individual outfit that could have appeared identical for a few seconds? Notice, the chance of choosing the same identical outfit could have just become quite difficult and interesting to think about. It was those small uncommon details that Dior has always been perfect and successful at making one ponder what is the difference about these two?

Van Assche elaborated his suits in two tones of colors, such as a red wine suit with a black lining pictured above, to just matching silk linings. He made his other lightly tailored suits look unique with either straight or diagonal pockets, whilst his leather patchwork techniques were etched in various positions; the best in the collection. It was his idea of dressing up for a sunny negotiation that most likely motivated him to present silhouettes that felt quite comfortable and relaxed with glossy T-shirts under suits or jackets; his leather numbers were somewhat edgy for the Dior man. It seems Van Assche's minimalistic details for the Dior Homme brand will make it a favorite amongst many in menswear that will never turn into a weary presentation.

Vibe: Humble Luxury.

Who would've imagined the Herm�s guy would be the one to wear a $99,000 light crocodile t-shirt that didn't have much to say if you saw him wearing it? That has been Veronique Nichanian's long term goal under the brand, which is one of the world's most recognizable luxury brands. Making luxury look so easy on the eye is a mastering skill Nichanian has obtained with perfection. The touch and feel of her fabric is another magical journey towards real luxury.

It could be rare to declare that the Hermes menswear line has had such a higher reputation than its womenswear counterpart. Mrs. Nichanian and Mr. Christophe Lemaire (womenswear designer) both understand that travel is the soul that holds Hermes together, but Mrs. Nichanian with no doubt knows hot to describe it with a much more clearer perspective: a man who travels with pure luxury at an effortless state of mind. 

She opened her spring 2014 menswear show with a pair of great slim-fitted pants done in the finest cotton material, a pleasantly tailored navy suit, signature print button-down dress shirt and tie, and a navy crocodile belt piece. It was her other looks of simplicity - t-shirts with buttons on shoulders, scoop-neck tank tops, and exquisitely light printed polka dot pants - that deserved a stand innovation. 

Leather couldn't be left off in here. Her baby lambskin leather pants looked as breezy as a pair of cotton pants, while her outerwear jackets were yet another triumphant season for the brand. She added one specific high-tech jacket that changed from a leather suede to a its natural lambskin leather fabric; it was done so well it appeared the fabrics weren't event stitched together. She seemed to have shifted from her most talked about crocodile t-shirt, and instead opted to go for what seemed to be a python long sleeve light gray sweatshirt; a sumptuous choice of fabric that looked splendid for the brand. 

Vibe: Paris Boys in L.A.

Kenzo can be mostly recognized for its iconic tiger print logo sweaters from its spring 2013 collection, which have had an outstanding street style success over the past season. It revived the brand to become a huge target amongst young teenagers who were eager to know who designed those super cool sweaters. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were thinking about how Parisian boys would look like traveling to L.A. Their color-block suits did imbue a California sensation that came in very relaxed silhouettes boys in L.A. would wear. The only difference is that Kenzo's version of L.A. would come with a dose of Parisian luxury. Shirt sleeve scribbled printed shirts and sweaters were pleasing to watch, and could become another potential success for the developing brand. Lean and Lim are still in works of finding the correct niche that could lead Kenzo to a greater height in fashion. So far, its cool artistic-ly sweaters have proven to be a beginning signature for the label.

Vibe: Sporty-Couture.

Alexis Mabille has a tendency to be a little to heavy in his menswear collections. They are of a high-luxe art, but his designs are best appreciating as a work of art, then wearing them. He may have understood by now that men's wear clothes differs greatly from womenswear. His last three collections have shown a much more casual vibe done in the Mabille manner: adding special doses of sportswear injected with couture. 

His spring 2014 men's wear collection felt even more communicating to a broader audience. He went with high stitched scoop-neck tank tops that looked appealing with his very fitted navy and olive pants, etched with white linings around pockets, yoke, and a braided leather finished on the back of a pocket for a couture quality. Shirts came with epaulets finished on the sides. One hybrid piece was a mixture between a suit and a sweatshirt that was noteworthy for the new Mabille man. Sweaters printed with the phrase, "Tonight I wear Mabille so let's set the world on fire I can burn brighter than the sun," had an urban quality. His last look, pictured above in a short black suit and crisp white detailed shirt was that of the modern Mabille, but much more toned down. 

Vibe: The Classic Denim Staple.

A.P.C. (Atelier de Production et de Cr�ation) has been around since 1987. The brand has established itself as a leader in easy to wear cool urban menswear pieces at fairly luxe prices. Their jeans are what have gained them a higher reputation in menswear for making one of the best well made jeans that are sure to last. Purchasing knitwear and outwear from this brand is a decision well made. They are always on the hunt for making a new collection that will always become a cool classical wardrobe staple to any of your looks. 

Their new spring 2014 men's wear collection is yet to be another favorite amongst the many who appreciate the craftsmanship A.P.C. does finely. One camel colored suede jacket was the seasons must add to your next wardrobe staple. 

Vibe: The Dapper Airport Arrival.

Alexandre Mattiussi of AMI had in mind an airport arrival from a vacation. His men - young, businesslike, and adventurous - were the main focus for his new spring 2014 men's wear collection. He added fun the way he believed a man should arrive from an airport. But what was more captivating was the choice of tailoring that made everything much more gratifying then from previous seasons. 

He added camouflage and floral prints, stripes that looked fresh on a pair of trousers, Prince of Wales check suits that were paired with much more tailored shirts or cool knitted sweaters, pleasing denim numbers, and layering techniques that made the AMI guy compelling to watch arrive from an airport. We wish arrivals were this well put together in reality.

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