Showing posts with label milan fashion week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label milan fashion week. Show all posts
Milan: Gucci Men's Spring 2014, Roberto Cavalli, and More
3:50 AM
Belstaff, Brioni, Canali, Diesel, Emporio Armani, fashion show, Fashion Week, Fendi, gucci, Mens Runway, Menswear, milan fashion week, Moschino, Roberto Cavalli, spring summer 2014
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Day 3 of 4 Milan Men's Fashion Week: Texture Techniques.
Vibe: Youthful Luxury.
The first model came out in a full floral print t-shirt, matching leggings, and an interesting black backpack. A full astonishing ensemble. The effortless cream setting sent a vintage relaxed feel, and once the first two models walked down the runway, all became instantly clearer. Frida Giannini has recently become mother to a baby girl, who will most likely experience the luxurious life a young Gucci girl should have. Her motherhood experience helped transform the phase of the new Gucci man we witnessed: more youthful, delicate, and athletic.
She replaced all her button-down dress shirts for t-shirts - floral prints, yellow, light brown, blue, red - and easily appealing silk scarfs styled around suits. Too casual? Not at all. She perfectly managed to keep the Gucci guy on luxury territory. One full matching gray floral print suit had a triumphing victory to the the collection. And Gucci being an international label who is best at designing on trend luxury outerwear, utilized its sportswear mood to present a series of exquisite anoraks with various color-blocked leggings done in rich high-tech fabrics. Her other light trench coats and blousons were worth the effort. Giannini stamped yet another obsession to be included in international editorials and magazines very soon.
Vibe: Playing with your Biker Jacket.
Diesel Black Gold started off day 3 of Milan Men's fashion week with a great show. Well, maybe not as perfect, but you can't help but try on one of their jackets or denim you know have a clean cool vibe in them. The brand is always looking for new methods to keep their designs updated and desirable in todays competitive market. The presentation opened with a white biker that was finished with an additional cream detailed hem, and slouchy pants (jeans) that is becoming quite a trend over these past few weeks in men's spring 2014 collection. Trending were their floral brushed denim jackets that would have its Diesel guys going wild for them. They added a nice notch to the classical denim top. It was fine to see a black leather t-shirt paired with an appealing semi-stained graphic suit and skinny-slim cropped jeans.
Vibe: The Modern Dandy.
Roberto Cavalli only had 19 looks for its new spring 2014 men's wear collection. But that's more than enough to invest in the entire collection. If you don't favor Roberto Cavalli's work, then there must be something odd in you. The king of subtle prints, who knows how do masculine embroidery superbly well, evidently kept his crown once more. The Cavalli man is one who can be identified for being outgoing, festive, a cool dandy, and knows how to appreciate the feeling of luxury. All were evident in these collection. His embroidered shirts had a very satisfying confidence men wouldn't mind wearing, whilst his silk smooth suits - especially the final one pictured in the middle - were captivating. His outerwear wasn't left behind. A brown embroidered collarless biker jacket in leather and black python sleeves were very gratifying to have come across by.
Vibe: A Gentleman's Mermaid.
Canali is a label you can recognize it's suits by its light gray tone of stripes that can help one know who you're wearing. A crisp blue suit, sophisticatedly tailored, were noteworthy of a man who has a sharp taste of style. It was interesting to see Canali go into semi-casual looks that weren't unappealing to see. A light denim suit, pictured above, looked fresh with diminutive polka dot print trousers, a blue-striped shirt, and a white and purple polka dot tie. Mermaid prints in shorts, sweaters, and suits made of nice insets to the newly Canali man. Bolder stripes made an intro as well that . Its trousers were much more interesting to see available come in a strong tailored palette of colors. Canali set a questionable doubt here. Conservative or youthful? Which route did the brand actually take?
Vibe: Outerwear Luxe Gear. It's necessary.
Belstaff doesn't make the most desirable outerwear you'd wear for a temporary season. They understand a man is much more adventurous, and wants to feel they've invested in a luxury piece that won't hurt him when he accidentally scratches his newly thousand dollar outwear jacket. That has been Belstaff goals for many years. Making men feel not only protective in their jackets, but trendy. It's new spring 2014 menswear collection had a mixture of vintage and past seasonal collection incorporated back again here: iconic belted coats modernized in colors and details, newly hand-painted camouflage jackets that looked so new to the brand, brilliant orange parkas, and leather ribbed biker jacket. Creative director, Martin Cooper, included only two innovative sweaters - one in orange (pictured above) and light blue - that imbued a high-tech competition to other outwear designers.
Vibe: Mesh Shirts are In.
There is not much to say about Emporio Armani men's spring 2014 collection. Armani seems it will always stick to its regular house codes no matter what season. But the only thing we appreciate from him is bringing in new shades of colors each season. This season he went for more intense metallic colors the Armani man would enjoy wearing. His graphic t-shirts and shady suits had some good pieces to be inspired by. There were asymmetrical jackets that have become the trademark of the brand. His trousers had a choice of going fitted, slim, or relaxed, which is what most men would appreciate from an Armani pants. Shorts, such as one light gray tailored short above, had a sporstwear aesthetic that were convincing to watch. But his mesh fabric - in suits and shirts - reminded us of who the Armani man was: a fit contemporary city man who has little to fear about who he is.
Vibe: Keeping it Cool in the Desert.
Fendi's runway can never be disappointing to experience. We wonder how much sand it took to fill that marvelous runway to looked appealing to to the new men's spring 2014 collection? Fendi demonstrated they don't only know how to play with fur. They too can deliver an exciting collection of bold textures. Innovative t-shirts have become a bigger trend in menswear, but it is the price brands have to battle to get a customer to truly buy that single t-shirt that will have a significance to anything they wear. A plain white t-shirt or a glossy faded illusional Fendi t-shirt? Fendi is the winner. T-shirts were an important part of the collection.
Texture was crisply noticeable in outwear - cracked glossy leather jackets, ostrich jackets, crinkled shorts, and knitwear sweaters. A splash of colors - burgundy, sunset orange, saffron, blue, and tan - drove the collection much higher. Even though half of Fendi's pieces were oversized ore more relaxed, they couldn't be analyzed harshly; texture aided. Sneakers - graphically painted - were fresh with a relaxed gray suit, larger t-sirt, and matching trousers with hems rolled up. Fendi understand the direction men want to travel in fashion.
Vibe: El Mariachi.
Etro can never go out of style with its upgraded paisley shirts. That is the print (paisley) that has been its signature mark ever since. For Spring, Kean Etro seemed to be dedicating an homage to the Mariachi man. Pants - in studded details - resembled the gold side seams a Mariachi pant would come decorated with. Trending were its fitted color-blocked pants - the best in the collection - which reminded one of how the more casual Mariachi pant is, only done in Etro's version. The full collection of pants are sure to be a big hit for the brand next summer, and in international men's magazines. Etro's formalwear also kept the vibe going on with his exquisite embroidery details that made you want to sing a Mexican song with those vibrant sombreros. Overall, what seemed to be a Mariachi interpretation helped Etro be on the map of designers with great influence.
Milan Menswear Spring 2014: Calvin Klein, Prada, and More
6:51 AM
Bally, Bottega Veneta, Calvin Klein, fashion show, Fashion Week, Iceberg, Mens Runway, Menswear, milan fashion week, Missoni, prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, spring summer 2014, Trussardi
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Day 2 of 4 Milan Fashion Week: Innovative Designs
Vibe: Sophisticated Men in Graphic Chalk Marks.
Tomais Maier doesn't need much to describe about his cool sophisticated tailoring that has progressed so rapidly at Bottega Veneta. It seems the brand has turned from being just a young teenager to a man with exquisite taste in luxury. Its spring 2014 men's collection started off fresh and powerful with gray suits - tailored so easily fitted - that shifted into a series of white-chalked outlined suits that portray the detailed craftsmanship that goes into making such a suit. They had an illusion, as if the lapels were really sewn it, that you had to get closer to see it was only a well played tailoring outline trick. His white subtle button down shirts came with black graphic chalk marks that elevated the mood.
Maier has become well acquainted in designing very gratifying sweaters that have become a trademark to the growing brand. His intense graphic selection of cardigans and sweaters scored high in this collection. While trousers were appearing to be favoring darker shades, his introduction of white and navy windowpane-checked ones were refined at Bottega's codes; sleek, luxurious, and masculine. His other knitted polo shirts and wide-sleeve shirts were special to the man who seeks to invest in an innovative top. There was one shirt who had outline of a what appeared to be the making of a biker jacket printed over it. The finale of models wearing white suits, felt more relaxed, but that didn't stop Maier from his triumph.
Vibe: Improved Snake skin and Ostrich Shorts.
There were speculations that designer, Umit Benan, would part away from the famous Trussardi leather goods brand, which he did. So in February, Gaia Trussardi, granddaughter of Dante Trussardi (founder), was appointed as creative director of the entire main line. Who else to do the job and reward them then someone from the family? Gaia is young, but her youthfulness doesn't seem to interfere with her skills, because her debut for Trussardi men's spring 2014 collection was quite a strong one.
Knitwear pieces had a rugged appeal in colors that seemed to come from the hot desert. By far, her most special items here were her shorts - crafted in leather, ostrich, and snakeskin - that couldn't be allowed to be described as "average." She managed to deliver light touches of earthy leather button-down shirts that could have a potential customer wanting several of them. Her cropped trousers, such as one in a leather snake print, were pleasing in some ways. She also thought about offering options to the client who prefers to wear a luxurious crisp white trouser paired with a super light linen shirt and jacket. One gray tank top done in leather called for next's summer to arrive. Leather or not, the collection had Trussardi's elements.
Vibe: The Color-block Ongoing Trend.
Iceberg can be mostly identified by its cool color-block designs. Its spring 2014 menswear collection couldn't let go of the brand's signature. Federico Curradi sent another great selection of fresh color-blocking designs. His focus this season seemed to be that of the zippers. There were zippers attached everywhere: across sweaters and jackets, side seams of shirts, hems of fitted trousers, pockets of white and black shorts, and shoulder sleeves of t-shirts. All added a cool factor the the collection. His origami stitched patches of colors on sweaters felt appropriate to wear any season.
Vibe: The Future of Casual Sportswear.
"Formalwear is imbued with the efficiency and comfort of sportswear," were Massimiliano Giornetti's words towards its new spring 2014 menswear collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. It was in fact noticeable what Giornetti was trying to describe previously. Clothes felt so light. So comfortable infused with a spring of colors - light green, caramel, white, khaki, sky blue, orange, and intense blue - that sent a futuristic silhouette to how athletic guys will dress. The play of numbers stitched in tank tops, sweaters, and coats were that of what a sports guy would feel devoted towards. His shorts were crisp and somewhat casual-formal when brought with effortless colors of suits, whilst trousers had a clean cut with those folded layers between the knee. Ones to watch were Ferragamo's techno anoraks. Gladiator leather-type sandals were that of what the true casual athlete would wear. Salvatore Ferragamo was a collection that understood what sportswear should luxuriously appear like.
Vibe: Technology of the Sky Prints.
Calvin Klein reminded one of how the future of menswear fashion could look like in those intensely blue numbers. It may have been the hairstyle of the first few models that felt we were in another dimension. Italo Zucchelli's spring 2014 menswear collection was about the "celebration of the summer sky, and the simplicity of the summer wardrobe." The sky is blue, and blue was the color that gave life to most of the high-tech collection. Zuchelli has been a long respected designer, who understands clearly the codes of the Calvin Klein aesthetics, but over the time he has made his signature techniques much more visible. He knows how to choose the best sophisticated high-end fabrics, giving it a sharp futuristic tailoring technique that never fails to disappoint. He began with a series of tech blousons and sweaters - cut in mesh - that were paired with fluorescent wool pants that said tough boy. His cloud print sweaters and t-shirts, and two images of sunset, were pleasing to soon wear. He presented three super authentic crocodile jackets, but one baby blue crocodile vest screamed more luxury than simplicity. The winner is declared.
Vibe: The Knitwear World.
Missoni's spring 2014 menswear runway was decorated with huge threads of yarn on each side that reminded us what we were about to experience. Angela Missoni, knows her presentation is never a show without new introductions of fresh knitwear cardigans and sweaters. These are knits you really have to get close to appreciate each and every detail of how the threads of fabric are mixed to understand its luxurious price tag. They do have a very different feel compared to an average knitted one, which is why Missoni is the best at delivering its trendy pieces of knitwear. Button down shirts hand painted in brushes of blue, brown, and red had an interesting effect to them. Suits - made in Missoni's signature print - were refreshening ones, while a new blue checkered suit paired with a navy t-shirt were youthful and energetic as the Missoni brand projects.
Vibe: A Quirky-Cool Tropical Vacation.
Leave it up to Miuccia Prada to make your vacation the most interesting of all. It takes time to adjust to the lifestyle Prada prefers to be: ugly-chic. But it is that ugliness that magically turns into a beautiful piece of art that has made the brand so successful over the years. It wasn't too difficult to fall in love with these collection if you're a huge Prada fan.
The show began with a tropical print silk shirt paired with a soft tailoring suit and trousers. Most of her suits had a very relaxed silhouette, but her silk numbers - blousons, tropical shirts, and vibrant shorts - had a dominating factor you had to go back again to enjoy. It was as if Miuccia was describing the liberation of man who seeks to advance to the next level of fashion with full confidence. A salmon print blouson with a semi-drawing of a woman had a seductive power. Prada's knitwear pieces - cut in a smaller size - came in various phases of nature scenes that went from a joyful mood to a calm satisfying state of mind. Models were sprayed with water to give the show a hot summery season made with love. The atmosphere was everything to give Miuccia Prada a huge applause for her new innovative trend towards menswear fashion.
Versace Men's Spring 2014 Athletic Movement
12:51 AM
fashion show, Fashion Week, Mens Runway, Menswear, milan fashion week, spring summer 2014, versace
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"Athleticism, idealism, discipline, and freedom rule." Those were Versace's description for its spring 2014 menswear collection. It wasn't difficult to search for these terms here when given Versace's dictionary. Donatella Versace sent a parade of well built models to center around her theme: the life of a compassionate and devoted athlete in the world of sports. It's just that in Versace's world, everything is done with more exposure and somewhat sexier etiquettes.
Her suits - given a tough disciplinary tailoring - may have been surprisingly classic (simple) for the Versace customer. She gave a sporty silhouette to her suits and trousers - relaxed in a lower waist and finished with ribbed cuffs - that made it ideal for her athletes to go from the gym to an important event. There were a variety of options to choose from: single or double breasted, one or two buttons, silk, denim or leather suits, waist belt suits, and striking prints that came with the words "Versace" printed all over and another one in sports training figures. Dress shirts came in standard versions of white with a gold medusa button at top, to a very revealing see-thru lace number.
There were only five different looks of shorts in these collection that were quite pleasing. She presented three suits with tailored shorts, and one faded blue short with a bright blue sleeveless shirt. But what took the best prize here was a hot light green suede short paired with the same colored jacket. It was either the perfect color and details of these short or the model who wore it covered with fluorescent tape around his legs that made them so desirable.
Freedom wore her number of graphic art pants, shirts, and jackets that are sure to be a big hit next summer. It seems Donatella Versace knew we would be fond of her fluorescent oversized tape, which could turn into a DIY project, that her cashmere sweaters - attached with a black leather star and a gold medusa - were gratifying insets. A series of leather bags decorated with leather stars and black medusa studs spoke for themselves who you're wearing.
A collection without leather in Versace, regardless what season were in, wouldn't be a Versace show. Her motor jackets were crafted with great triumph. It is probably the details of its medusa zippers that elevated the spice. There still remained "classical" gold studded biker jackets that sent a message of getting comfortable and purchasing one before they're gone.
Leather trousers had a light clean cut that felt comfortable and breathable to wear. One python suit matched with python trousers finished in ribbed cuffs may have not looked light, but it proved Versace knows how to handle leather with ease. As far as casualness goes, a colored medusa print shirt with black detailed pants, and open toed sandals, had nothing too casual.
Dolce and Gabbana Men's Spring 2014 Greece Influence
12:07 AM
Dolce and Gabbana, fashion show, Fashion Week, Mens Runway, Menswear, milan fashion week, spring summer 2014
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It's been quite a week for designers, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana. First came their tailoring presentation and opening store in London, then came the court battle, and finally we were honored to experience such a beautiful collection of extraordinary scenes of Greece meets Italian craftsmanship. There was a resemblance going on in this runway just like a battle that was going on in real life. Zeus vs. Apollo. Which greek god would you go towards? It is only these designers who make choosing a printed shirt so difficult to decide. There was a scenery in every piece that you could think of - shirts, jackets, suits, shorts, and trousers - that added a soothing atmosphere to their looks with their relaxed silhouette. Once again, professional male models should most likely be forgetting to walk on this prestigious runway, because Sicilian men seem to be sticking with the brand. And even though some may have been disappointed, we appreciated reuniting with their Sicilian models. It is perhaps that we know they're not professionals, and their heights, that makes us feel were receiving a warm welcome from the brand.
It's going to be more than three seasons, and Dolce & Gabbana have found their strongest roots for the brand. Any guesses? Yes, their Sicilian inspired heritage. There were still some inset of maps of our now beloved Sicily in shorts and long sleeve shirts that were incorporated back in their spring 2014 collection. It's become a habit ever since. And to recap, their new Greek designs actually were part of their Sicilian mythology beliefs.
Suits were no where loose like in previous collections. They were the contrary. A sharp tailoring that almost looked too perfect to be true. And they came in a masculine number of colors - light gold, dark brown, dark green, cherry red, baby blue, cream, plum, bronze, black, and white - in some choices of either single or double breasted looks. Skinny pants here looked formal when paired with these luxurious confident suits. Other colored pants were fitted and cut at appropriate lengths. A particular dress shirt, such as a black shirt pictured, caught a special attention with oversized buttons. Some suits printed with the image of the Greek god, Apollo, were pleasing to watch as well.
After their court rule, there were speculations that Dolce & Gabbana would present a series of stripe designs in their spring collection. The rumors weren't false after all. Stripes - in duller shades - were present in suit ensembles, shorts, and other shirts. And speaking of shorts, their somewhat fitted short shorts had a nice appeal to them with various printed scenes. They would make a great combo with a simple t-shirt, or why not, without one if you have the body to show it. Their knitwear pieces - one in blue and purple - were no doubt fresh and tough to say the least. Accessories - sandals, dress shoes, belts, and bags - described the whole triumphing story.
Milan Menswear Spring 2014: Jil Sander, Ermenegildo Zegna, and More
6:25 AM
cornelian, Costume National, Ermenegildo Zegna, fashion show, Fashion Week, Jil Sander, Les Hommes, Mens Runway, Menswear, milan fashion week, Neil Barrett, spring summer 2014
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Day 1 of 4 Milan Fashion Week: Relaxed Silhouettes
Vibe: Riviera Knits
Corneliani opened its menswear show with a bright sunny morning. The sun shined, but Sergio Corneliani's spring 2014 collection lacked some sparkle. His first look came in a cream high-collared jacket/suit that seemed a bit outdated. There was something missing in his jackets that brought the collection down some points. It was maybe perhaps the poor color choices and simplicity of his designs that didn't help bring back memories of these pieces unless we were to look back at the collection again.
But not all was lost in this collection. His cotton knitted sweaters - woven with a mixture of youthful colors - were one of the best from Corneliani; fresh when paired with slim fitted pants. Another hit here were two specific suits - one in pale pink and the other in blue-gray - that elevated the mood to a cool trip to the riviera with leather sandals. Overall, his tailoring and textural skills saved most of the collection from drowning. And we need those knitted numbers ASAP.
Vibe: The Haute Couture Gentleman
Ever imagined how haute couture would look for a man? We already know Ermenegildo Zegna is a label that takes menswear luxury to a whole another level. It's Fall 2013 menswear collection just showed how much power they have over the luxury market: mink and deer skin jackets; the best silk and velvet suits. Stefano Pilati, ex-designer of Yves Saint Laurent, recently became the new creative director of the label. His spring 2014 menswear debut went on a very high-end couture route, but before judging it is crucial to keep in mind that the price tag for these collection will probably be way above the average Zegna customer who loves to purchase an exquisite item each year.
Pilati went for a more relaxed silhouette without forgetting to let go of the term "luxury," which was obvious in this collection. He specifically played around with a number of suits - paired with the same fabric, but adding a jacquard pattern to his pants that made them much more delicate. His blousons and shorts - rich in color - vamped up the Zegna gentleman. Safari jackets, oversized and lean coats, foulards tucked inside lapels, and trompe de l'oeil sleeves rolled up, were all the returning signature of Mr. Pilati.
Vibe: Parisian Streetstyle guys
Costume National tends to be the brand who can do the French casual of streetstyle pretty well. A white number ensemble with a loose shirt, intricate hat, and white boots with black belt buckles had a cool appeal to the whole look. Being easy and fly is probably the road the Costume National man prefers to take. One model wore a khaki trenchcoat with a long black/white tank top, slim black pants, and black boots. Total fresh appeal for the guy who is looking for something to be photographed by streetstyle photographers. Another shiny gold suit spoke of the man who is outspoken, but seemed a little too much for the Costume National customer. One thing we've learned from the brand is that extremely French casual is all in the details.
Vibe: Skater Boys Gone to Fashion Week
It's going to be three seasons since Mrs. Sander's has taken over her own namesake label. She perfectly has kept her title reigning as the "Queen of Clean," making the most minimal of things stand out. Minimal is something extremely hard to achieve in fashion, but Jil Sanders has never had a problem hypnotizing us with her designs. Yes, the looks may be somewhat too simple, but that's what minimal is, and Sander's seems to have add a magic potion to her designs that attract us what so ever. Her spring 2014 menswear collection was yet another additional reigning point to her title.
Her slim-fitted pants - trimmed shortly above the ankle with oversized cuffs - were razor sharp clean. She added some glossy suits that would look perfect in her style or with any other look. Light patterned cardigans were brushed perfectly to keep things minimal. Oversized shorts - in neutral colors and prints with exaggerated cuffs - were interesting to watch. The most surprising of all were her print ensembles, which at one point created doubt. But if you thought about separating them, and incorporating only one of the suits or pants with another one of your own outfits, they would be the perfect execution. Seems Jil Sander didn't loose her crown after all.
Vibe: Leather Bondage
Les Hommes (The Men) played a fair game at is spring 2014 menswear collection. If in anything you should be familiar with this brand, it should be their suits - trendy with its slim silhouettes, well crafted, and luxurious. Leather played an important factor in this collection. Their color-blocked leather shirts looked casually luxurious when layered under suits. Liked it or not, it was somehow doubtful to give the answer. And if these particular looks were questionable, their suits were no doubt the star of the night. The manner in which one suit was designed in leather sleeves was a favorite to have tried on. The structure and design in which most of the suits were made called for an evening celebration. Why? Because you want to be the well dressed gentleman of the night. Some prints - especially in suits - were pleasing to have seen.
Vibe: The Guy in the Coolest Jacket
What Neil Barrett didn't do so good from the waist down, he did from the waist up. His spring 2014 menswear collection of outerwear was everything here. Leather jackets - in special patterns, stripes, and checker boards - were a must have for any season. Sure, its a spring collection, but Mr. Barrett's jacket said something else: your next most timeless piece of outerwear you should invest in. His other sweaters and knits were one's to also pile in your wardrobe. The design themselves had a youthful yet tough structure to them. As far as mastering goes, he excels in outerwear.
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