Day 1 of New York Fashion Week:
Vibe: Men's Dress Shirts Turned Dress.
The BCBGMAXAZRIA Spring 2014 "collection celebrates men's tailoring in the most feminine form," were the designers brief description of their new collection. If men's tailoring has been such a popular trend in womenswear, the duo seemed to have taken advantage of a simple white dress shirt and deconstructed it into several detailed pieces to inject into their presentation.
The first model came out with what could have been an inspirational oversized shirt - plackets spliced, collar loosened, sleeves wrapped around waist, and a technical pleat effect - with a side patchwork of stamped florals for femininity. The rest continued on with fabric colors - white, gray, baby blue, and peach - that reminded one these dresses, skirts, or pants came from a men's dress shirt; a favorite of mine was a white cropped top designed with cuffs and pleats for a cool streetstyle moment. The designers definitely showed they took time to analyze every detail that some us may not have known was hidden in a classic men's button-down shirt.
And while men's tailoring may have been their newly developed collection, they couldn't let go of their iconic sheer dresses in beautiful palettes of floral prints that made their presence in the second half of the runway. Last season may have been about layering your sheer dresses, but this season they made sure these pieces spoke for themselves - so lighthearted, feminine, and youthful.
The new collection may have been somewhat of an easy statement for some, but you can't deny that designers, Lubov and Max Azria, have understood that details are what make a collection noteworthy of a great designer. And details here were more than enough to place an order for next season.
Vibe: Relaxed Tailoring. Fitted Biker Jackets.
Richard Chai has always had a good sense of youthful tailoring, but his Spring 2014 collection seemed to have gone to a state of freedom, soft tailoring, but very structured biker jackets. His menswear pieces have been one of his strongest points in his collections, gathering the likes of celebrities like Jonas Brothers, Colton Haynes, Zachary Quinto, and others to wear some of his coveted menswear pieces. Womenswear had another slightly opinionated approach this time.
Some of his tailoring techniques seemed a little off with hems of pants dramatically oversized, causing a model to trip more than once while walking down the runway. His pairing of skirts over pants were somewhat kitsch to say the least. It was maybe his choice of fabrics that didn't aid him in creating what he was looking forward in his women's side; some fabrics should have been crispier in terms of relaxed tailoring. But not all was lost, because his striped tops, cropped tops (a must have), and final black looks had more of what Richard Chai was working to portray; some dresses were worth a try as well. Oh, and if anything there was to admire about his womenswear counterpart, it had to be his intricate and fitted biker jackets - in white, red, and black - young girls will be greatly pleased with.
His new menswear spring 2014 collection had everything the Richard Chai men looks forth next summer. There is always something cool about Mr.Chai that men appreciate the most. He also went for more relaxed tailoring that suited his men the best - oversized tank tops, polos, and trousers. Short shorts have been quite a trend for next season, but he kept a consistent and masculine tailoring his clients will enjoy. Outerwear pieces, like his biker jackets, were also eye catching at this runway.
It may not have been the best of the season for Richard Chai's womenswear side, but it certainly was another great season for his menswear side. Wait to see some male celebrities sitting front row today rocking his biker jackets or shorts very soon.
Vibe: A Whimsical Paradise of Beautiful Details.
Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters have had their label, Creatures of the Wind, running since 2008. It is difficult for new upcoming designers to survive in the fashion industry when you know you're competing against other much more recognizable designers that may put you as a replica. But they've managed to stay true to their brand since the beginning, introducing unique and quirky patchwork designs that have become a signature of theirs; their prints can sometimes feel very vintage though. Last season, they managed to deliver an outstanding collection with impeccable details that made them noteworthy of their brand. Their spring 2014 collection was yet another season with richer colors and DETAILS.
The designers have really been demonstrating everyone they too can make a great top. The first model walked down the runway in a western inspired shirt jacket that could have gotten the audience at the show to purchase one right away. And what to say about the gold and silver metallic shirts that are capable to be a streetstyle sensation nowadays. It was also nice to have seen the designers tone down their whimsy patchworks and have them conservatively injected into one beautiful pink color-block trenchcoat. When it came to dresses, there was something youthful in some of their dresses - a baby pleated dress and a light brown leather color-block dress - that was surprising to see considering the designers like for a more mature audience. For those who are vintage mature lovers, you may find great skirt here, but for the wilder ones it may pass, although speaking fashion, these skirts were a must have in editorials.
For now, Creatures of the Wind seemed to have demonstrated it's meant for everyone - you have to learn how to separate clothes by piece here for your personal style - making this collection a very sellable one. You can now find a great piece of outerwear or top that is luxuriously detailed, but in order to rise to the top, their fit in skirts or pants, should be taken more attention if they'd like to reach a wider audience of all ages. But aside from that very small complaint, the rest was to indulge in a collection that "is about the perfect land, and imagined paradise."
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